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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #451
    OptiBoardaholic OdTech's Avatar
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    Useful advice for 3 piece

    Hello 'rick4003 'and welcome and thanks for the reply, i hope that idea worked quite well in your case. I will in the future use your advice "shrinking tube". The best thing about being optician: lots of creativity and common sence. Good luck in the optibiz industry.:cheers:

  2. #452
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    Re: alcohol

    harry a saake said:
    :idea: Heres a tip courtesy of my good friend Phernell Walker. If using alcohol to clean off lenses that have an ar coating use denatured alcohol as opposed to isopropyl. The isopropyl dries out the AR top coating, making it brittle and causing it to break.
    Harry,

    Just wanted to remind everybody that 95% of all lens cleaners on the market consist of 70% isopropyl and 30% H2O. Look out for surfactant water based lens cleaners.

  3. #453
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    I'm amazed that Phrenel would think that; Idon't think you can get "denatured" alcohol without an Rx, or at a liquer store, and if you'd like to use something like Vodka to clean your lenses go ahead, and i've used isopropal alcohol on AR lenses for years, without any damage. isopropal alcohol is incredibly inexpensive, and if it harms the AR you're using, switch AR's.

  4. #454
    Manuf. Lens Surface Treatments
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    Ethanol ................................

    Texas Ranger said:
    I'm amazed that Phrenel would think that; Idon't think you can get "denatured" alcohol without an Rx, or at a liquer store, and if you'd like to use something like Vodka to clean your lenses go ahead, and i've used isopropal alcohol on AR lenses for years, without any damage. isopropal alcohol is incredibly inexpensive, and if it harms the AR you're using, switch AR's.
    Denatured alcohol is actually ETHANOL poisened with methanol (usually) or something else, so it is not drinkable. In this state it is easily and commercially available.
    Alcohols are solvents. Solvents should not be used on AR coated lenses on a continous basis as they will provide a source for eventual delamination of the coating.

  5. #455
    Snook Fishin' Optician Specs's Avatar
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    I get Denatured Alcohol at the local hardware store. It works great for removing progressive marks, although nothing beats Acetone for that job.

  6. #456
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    Cleaning AR

    Denatured alcohol is available with out a prescription from any local hardware store (i.e. Lowes).
    It is an excellent surfactant for cleaning AR lenses due to its biphasic nature.
    A denatured alcohol is a mixture of ethanol with a denaturent (there are
    over 80 legal denaturents available and methanol is one of them) This
    makes the ethanol undrinkable and ready for commercial use. A good
    example of a denatured alcohol is the new ethanol gasolines. This is a
    mixture of 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline. They are not the same thing. They can be interchanged in most cases but not all. 91% isopropyl is 9% water, while denatured alcohol is <0.1% water.
    Clearly, you don't need an Rx. Furthermore, it has worked well in all of my stores for 9 years.

    Phernell C. Walker, II, A.B.O.M.
    Vice President of Education & Operations
    BOA, Inc.

  7. #457
    OptiBoardaholic hip chic's Avatar
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    I LOVE shrink tubing

    I was interested to read earlier in this thread about shrink tubing and it's use with rimless specs.
    I have a few sizes of shrink tubing on hand.
    I've used it for many things including the temporary fixing of a temple broken in two!
    In other words, while my customer waits the few days for a replacement temple (or better yet, their new specs!), I will hold the split temple together with a piece of shrink tubing. You have to be sure the tubing not only covers the split in the temple but, also a bit beyond (20MM or so on each side of the split) for stability.
    I've used this for metal and plastic frames.

    hip chic

  8. #458
    OptiBoardaholic OdTech's Avatar
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    Tighten the screw in metal fullrim eyewear

    The Case: The screw is stripped and isn't tightening inside the barrel.

    Solution: Take an electric wire that has plastic cover on it, take the plastic away, now you see all tiny metals right?

    You cut off the tiny metal and put it inside the barrel with the stripped screw and tighten it as usual.

    Result: you have originally good looking piece of eyewear.

    Another way: Take bolt and Nut, do the usual thing, the result one side is smooth while the other isn't since its looks awkward.

    Feedbacl appreciated

  9. #459
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    Further improvement for the stripped barrell. Use an oversized self-tapping screw (Hilco).

    Or: Solder the hole, drill and tap.

    Chip

  10. #460
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    Stripped threads

    Wow Od-tech...that's "McGyver like" stuff there...

    Self Tapping Screws for stripped screw replacements anyone??? I think they were a God send.

    Hip Chick...

    Kudos on the shrink tubing. I've had to do the shrink tube temple repair as well.

    Believe it or not...I have used it as widsor wrap...(I know I have too much time on my hands)

    Take the 3mm tube that shrinks to 1mm...shrink it around some old round core wire. Take a very sharp blade (exacto knife or similar) and slice down one side (crossing blade against tube...like pealing potatoes).

    That leaves a "C" looking piece of tubing. Now carefully glue it to the frames eyewire.

    Why on earth would I do this???? I broke a black windsor wrap by accident and I could not find replacement...not even from Hilco... Frannel...anyone. I was stuck.

    Out of stupidty comes ingenuity I guess.

    Rock on all...great stuff on this post. I've learned a lot.

  11. #461
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    Re: Tighten the screw in metal fullrim eyewear

    OdTech said:
    Another way: Take bolt and Nut, do the usual thing, the result one side is smooth while the other isn't since its looks awkward.

    Feedbacl appreciated
    Start by putting the nut on upside down, after you have filed down the excess bolt to the nut, take the nut off and turn it over, nice finish!

  12. #462
    Rising Star shimsham's Avatar
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    Re: Temple tip "Tips"-Shorten and lengthen temples

    rick4003 said:
    IMPORTANT: If you cut the plastic temple tip be sure to file down the cut end so that it's not sharp. Use sand paper or a fine file and even buff it out if you have the tools to do so.
    Rick4003
    i like to rub it into a tissue (kleenex you yanks) with a drop of acetone at a perpendicular angle (straight down) after filing. Not so good if the temple tip finish is matt though. (have i told tou this one before?)

  13. #463
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    The cleaning of progressive markings

    I have found that a produce called "Quick Clean" works better than any other substance, and, although it's hardly something with which to mess, it is better than acetone, IMO. There is a caution regarding usage on polycarb.

    The company info is:

    MSI
    P.O. Box 154425
    Irving, Texas 75015-4425
    (800)227-4674

    And, no, I do not work for them.

  14. #464
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb contcts

    heres something i do when marking boxes of contact lenses. I always mark the right lens in a blue pen and the left lens with a red pen, and then point that out to the patient.

  15. #465

    Re: contcts

    harry a saake said:
    heres something i do when marking boxes of contact lenses. I always mark the right lens in a blue pen and the left lens with a red pen, and then point that out to the patient.
    hmmm thats handy...

    i normally ask the patient if they want their boxes marked, not all like it... and marked boxes are harder to return to supplier in case of cancellation!!!

    i normally just mark the right lens, with a great big red marker.... right lens first, red lens first.... never haaaad a call with a problem doing this!!!

  16. #466
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    On Disposable CL Boxes, I mark them with a removable sticker, that way if the patient has an unopened box that for one reason or another gets returned, I can still re-sell or return.

    Chip

  17. #467
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb screw heads

    certain color screw heads are hard to see where the slot is, especially if there black, take a pink or yellow magic marker and run it over the top of the screw head, the slot will now show up real visible and then you can wash it off.

  18. #468
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    Harry:

    It's time to up the light over your dispensing table and up the add on your spectacles. Maybe even look into useing an optivisor when you work.

    Sorry Harry but we all get older.

  19. #469
    Bad address email on file Oha's Avatar
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    Wave

    :hammer: I have a little reminder sign in my lab - learned, unfortunately, the hard way. It says:

    Tinting? Dont Leave.
    Leaving? Dont Tint

  20. #470
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    lens cleaner

    Re: alcohol

    harry a saake said:
    Heres a tip courtesy of my good friend Phernell Walker. If using alcohol to clean off lenses that have an ar coating use denatured alcohol as opposed to isopropyl. The isopropyl dries out the AR top coating, making it brittle and causing it to break.


    Harry,

    Just wanted to remind everybody that 95% of all lens cleaners on the market consist of 70% isopropyl and 30% H2O. Look out for surfactant water based lens cleaners.


    Two quick comments on these-
    First, using alcohol to clean a lens is much like using straight alcohol to clean your skin. It won't do too much damage the first few times, but after a certain amount of regular use, the damage done by the drying is very real.

    Secondly, regarding most cleaners being 70% alcohol and 30% water, you are absolutely right!! Make sure you know what is in the little bottles you are calling "lens cleaner"! Some alcohol is necessary to help the lens dry quickly and without spotting, but it shouldn't be anywhere near 70%.

    (Sorry it took so long to respond to these. I hadn't caught up on this thread in a while!)

  21. #471
    Bad address email on file Oha's Avatar
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    Re: contcts

    harry a saake said:
    heres something i do when marking boxes of contact lenses. I always mark the right lens in a blue pen and the left lens with a red pen, and then point that out to the patient.

    This is a great idea - but I use a Red pen on the Right, and blue on the left. Red-Right just easier to remember.

  22. #472
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    luv the tips

    I think this is a great thread full of info that i really appreciate reading. I am currently learning alot in school and need these tips to succeed academically as well as in the workplace. Thanks to all of you that are participating and offering your knowledge. Together we can make Opticianry a stronger art and science worldwide. God Bless you all. Grace Angel

  23. #473
    Independent Problem Optiholic edKENdance's Avatar
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    I don't think I've seen this on the thread but you can remove progressive markings off of lenses that have received an AR treatment with some scotch tape. Works like a charm.

  24. #474
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    Titanium/Cable Conversion

    I have just learned a lesson about titanium. I was attempting a cable conversion and the temples were about .02 mm too small. With other metals I place them on an anvil and beat them some with a hammer. This scores and flattens the metal, makes a snug fit sometimes.

    However with titanium the rules are different, it chips and flakes (my friend Vernon Lamb lost an eye in blacksmith shop this way, with just regular steel). The titanium does not expand with working, and no heating it doesn't help either. I don't have a TIG welder (if there are same small enough for our type work) so I don't know how to work with this stuff. You can cut it with an abrasive wheel, but I can't work or weldthe stuff.

    Perhaps our friend, Jerry Huang, has some useful information.

    Chip:hammer:

  25. #475
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb titanium

    Chip, i,ll see if i can get Jerry to respond, but i can tell you that titanium can only be welded in a vaccum chamber. jerry wrote a post on that one time on the board and showed how you could make one, maybe steve can find it in the archives

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