progressive checking
:D When i originally posted the tip on turning the lens upside down, i was talking about uncuts, typically the lens blanks will be so big you cannot adjust the lens table down far enough to put the factory marked distance circle over the aperture of the focimeter. I neglected to mention uncuts as obviously most finished glasses would not present that problem. As far as the auxillary lenses Chip, i think i learned to use them in 1965, might have been 64.
Figured you did Harry, but as well as I remember in 1965 most PALs were such a mess of abberration that it didn't matter whether you checked them or not.
Chip
[QUOTE]chip anderson said:
dfisher, both you and Harry should both know how to put an auxillary prism on a lensometer (focometer for you Limmeys) and read the lens at the actual center. And yes it is possible to for the stamp on the lens to be wrong, especially in the lesser known brands.
It's also possible for the sticker or stamp on the lens to have very little with the acutal lens center (P.D.)
Chip
Harry's post was checking add power, not PD. I was referring to the engraved add power on the lens. Since these engravings are molded into the lens front, if one is wrong, so would be tens of thousands.
If you simply want to know the add power, just take a peek.
alcohol
:idea: Heres a tip courtesy of my good friend Phernell Walker. If using alcohol to clean off lenses that have an ar coating use denatured alcohol as opposed to isopropyl. The isopropyl dries out the AR top coating, making it brittle and causing it to break.
What a great posting idea. Everyone learns something from these posts! Thought I may try to help...I am brand new to this site.
Screw Removal tips:
If a screw is broken in half and the shank is portion is sticking out of the hardware a little, take a screw head slotting file and cut a tiny slot on the bottom of the screw. Use a small flat tip blade (like one used on nose pad screws) and remove the shank.
When using screw extractors:
Use the smallest version (1.1mm) and attack the bottom of the screw and turn clockwise. Works better than using an extractor from the top. Also, if you have a drill press or dremel, put the extractor in that! Much more powerfull than your hand.
Drilling:
First- PLEASE always use oil when drilling. Anything will help but I recomend a cutting oil. That's what tool makers would use.
ALWAYS drill at the bottom of the screw. The screw threads that catch the hardware are at the bottom. The rest of the threads do nothing to hold the screw in place. Soooo...when you drill a small portion of the screw at the bottom, the rest of the screw will fall out!
This also solves the problem of drilling a longer distance at an angle.
If the drill bit Walks on you (does not want to start drilling where you want to start):
Make a slight indentation on the screw bottom. Use a scribe or a punch. I usually tap the scribe with a mallet and it makes a small mark that helps stead the drill bit.
Sorry for the length! Just a few tips from a repair tech.
Last edited by rick4003; 01-22-2003 at 04:58 AM.
Rimless cord mounts (Ref. to as Hoya mount or suspension Mount by some)
Simple trick:
To aid in threading the cord through the frame, cut the cord at an angle or slant. Much easier to thread through the hole that way. You will be threading a pointed end and not a blunt end through a hole.
I see reference to Loc-tite used on eyewire screws. Loc-tite is and anerobic (sp?) It will attack polycarbonate lenses SO BE CAREFUL. The smallest amount coming in contact with poly will eventually destroy the lens. Crazing and cracking will be inevitable.
Another option would be to use a locking screw with a coating...sure... screw color can be an issue.
You can also Flare the screw bottom with a flaring plier. Another safer way to protect the poly lens.
A couple of thoughts on previous posts
Rimless cord mounts (Ref. to as Hoya mount or suspension Mount by some)
Simple trick:
To aid in threading the cord through the frame, cut the cord at an angle or slant. Much easier to thread through the hole that way. You will be threading a pointed end and not a blunt end through a hole.
I see reference to Loc-tite used on eyewire screws. Loc-tite is and anerobic (sp?) It will attack polycarbonate lenses SO BE CAREFUL. The smallest amount coming in contact with poly will eventually destroy the lens. Crazing and cracking will be inevitable.
Another option would be to use a locking screw with a coating...sure... screw color can be an issue.
You can also Flare the screw bottom with a flaring plier. Another safer way to protect the poly lens.
Figure "8" Liner issues
Ok...three in a row. But as I scan these wonderful posts, more of the tricks I learned over the years come to mind...;-)
Figure "8" liner can be pain to replace. Here are a few tricks.
Someone mentioned using oil to help slide it in...always a helpful trick.
Figure "8" liner comes is different sizes. Try to have a few sizes on hand. Not knowing the exact number, I find having two figure 8 liners gives me FOUR options. Usually one figure 8 liner has two different dimension...one on the top side and one on the bottom side. Thus two different cords gives you four to work with.
Cut the cord at an angle to help feed the liner in.
Sometimes I have filed the end of the eyewire to open the slot that the cord slides through. I know some of you are wincing at this. But no patient I have ever dealt with ever noticed! Usually less than 1mm needs to be filed to get the slot opened. Many frames have a tappered eyewire and the slot (channel may be a better word) is less defined at the end. You can file both left and right side eyewires if you think it looks uneven but it really is not noticable.
If you get the liner started in the channnel but it becomes stubborn at some point during insertion (usually around a corner...but not necessarily) I will take a fine file, grip the end of the liner that is already in the slot (channel) and PULL it through the rest of the way. It's much easier than trying to push a stubborn liner through. Sometimes it's necessary to watch out for the "FEEDING" end though. Make sure the liner stays in line with the channel and is feeding in the open end while you are pulling it through.
There are also pliers that help press fit liners. They can be tough to use at first but with practice can become quite an ally. I usualy cut the liner to the proper length, lay it over the channel in the position it will fit and start in the MIDDLE of the eyewire to begin press fitting. Once I get it started (which is the toughest part) Then press fitting the rest is a snap. Work the plier to one side of the liner then to the other side. Kind of hard to explain but if anyone has questions...I'd be happy to follow up post.
Figure 8 liner replacement is not easy many times and I hope this post helps someone out in the future.
Back to reading these posts!
Jimbob wrote:
Does anybody know what, or how the green stuff under old nosepads is, or a way to "vaccinate" a frame against this?
I'm taking a guess at the white nosepads/ temple tips and thinking plasticisers, but what is the green gunk??!!
first to answer get a drink, when i'm round your way
==============================================
Rick's Reply:
I have way too much experience with this issue...my skin crawls sometimes...lol
Some people have a high acid content in their perspiration. The acid reacts to certain metals and usually turns green. If you looked at "Pitted Temples" you usually see some green on them too. That's caused by the reaction of acid to the metal.
So why to nosepads turn green even though they have not metal on them? (like clear silicone pads)
My Hypothisis:
Acid within a patients sweat reacts to the Guard Arm (or pad arm) and creates the green color. Silicone, being a pourous material absorbs the oils and sweat that has turned green.
Pads with metal inserts are even more likey to turn color on patients with high acid content in perspiration.
As far as the other disgusting "stuff" on pads, it's a buildup of dirt and oils....yeeeech.
To avoid most of this issue...patients must wash their eyewear more frequently. Probably will never happen.
Stainless and Titanium frames also help minimize this occurance.
Frames made of Nickel Silver or Monel are those that have issues with corrosion with some patients.
Soooo.....do I get that drink?
Rick4003
You guys are gonna hate the newbie with all the posts!
I saw posts on temple tips and lengthening and shortening temples. I have a few thoughts and hints that may help.
Here goes:
Tip replacement (if you indeed replace them in your practice):
Most common core sizes in the industry are 1.4mm to 1.6mm on standard frame materials such as Nickel and Monel.
Titanium and some Stainless have 1.1 mm cores.
Stock a variety of these sizes and colors. You can use "bones" from other frames as well keeping component cost down. Use heat to put them on. Very little is needed.
ALWAYS heat older tips when adjusting old glasses. They are more likely to crack as they have lost plasticides over time. New temple tips are usually pliable enough to bend to proper skull configuration without heat but I usually apply a little heat to them as well.
Lengthening temples:
I have soldered core extension on before. It's not fun. A very strong solder joint is needed and very little solder is used or a bluge may be visible when you put the tip on.
An easier way to lengthen temples is by using longer temple tips that have the same core hole depth. It's a very simple way to lengthen. These products are availible or you may find longer ones in your "Bone Pile" of frame scraps.
Shortening:
I always hate to see patients that have an long extension of temple end hanging below the ear. A simple action step can eliminate this problem.
Use heat and remove the exisiting temple tip. Cut the core wire (usually 5mm average or 10mm-15mm in extreme cases) and put the tip back on. Be sure to file the core wire end that you cut so that there is no burr on the end. A pointed end makes it much easier to re-insert the temple tip.
Some of you are thinking "If I cut the core, sometimes the tip won't slide all the way on because of the temple flaring out wider further up the end".
True: Here's what you can do.
1) Cut the temple tip size down. I recommend only 5mm or the most 10mm or the plastic tip does not provide adequate coverage behind the ear.
IMPORTANT: If you cut the plastic temple tip be sure to file down the cut end so that it's not sharp. Use sand paper or a fine file and even buff it out if you have the tools to do so.
2) If you think the temple tip will be too short by cutting it, you have the option of filing down the temple shoulder. BE CAREFUL NOT TO FILE TOO MUCH OR IT WILL BE VISIBLE. Done very carefully, this is another option that I have had success with.
Any questions will be followed up with responses.
Thanks,
Rick4003
As for the green stuff on nose pads, which is much more aesthetic than the dark brown stuff, it is simply copper that has been ionized? or leached out from the moisture and salts in our skin.
Another of my nose pad favorites is when they become swollen and filled with a clear fluid -- 100% pure, natural body oil!
Finally a quickie tip for cutting temples. Place permanent marks on your bench at 5,10, & 15mm. After removing the plastic tip, place the temple end at the appropriate mark and position your cutting pliers on the edge of the counter. No more measuring and you can cut a pair of temples in a matter of seconds. If you have to cut the plastic temple cover reverse the process and slide the front end to the edge of the counter and use a razor blade to whack off the tip at the exact length required with no measuring
We were tinting a pair of old progressive plastic CR 39 (Hi-index) and in the process the lenses became cloudy and mottled, as if the scratch coat had been compromised some time in the past and the heat from the tint bath aggravated the condition. Has anyone heard of this and if so, do you know what the cause would be?
You've answered your own question! Degraded SCR when put into a tint bath has a high potential to cloud, craze and generally ruin your day...if you didn't warn the patient about this before hand. I never send a lens in to be tinted without this warning. Found that by doing so I guaranted that it would virtually never happen. Guess what happens when I forgot to warn...vinmcmahon said:
We were tinting a pair of old progressive plastic CR 39 (Hi-index) and in the process the lenses became cloudy and mottled, as if the scratch coat had been compromised some time in the past and the heat from the tint bath aggravated the condition. Has anyone heard of this and if so, do you know what the cause would be?
Lee Prewitt, ABOM
Independent Sales Representative
AIT Industries
224 W. James St.
Bensenville, IL 60106
Cell : (425) 241-1689
Phone: (800) 729-1959, Ext 137
Direct: (630) 274-6136
Fax: (630) 595-1006
www.aitindustries.com
leep@aitindustries.com
More Than A Patternless Edger Company
rick4003 said:
Jimbob wrote:
Does anybody know what, or how the green stuff under old nosepads is, or a way to "vaccinate" a frame against this?
I'm taking a guess at the white nosepads/ temple tips and thinking plasticisers, but what is the green gunk??!!
first to answer get a drink, when i'm round your way
==============================================
Rick's Reply:
I have way too much experience with this issue...my skin crawls sometimes...lol
Some people have a high acid content in their perspiration. The acid reacts to certain metals and usually turns green. If you looked at "Pitted Temples" you usually see some green on them too. That's caused by the reaction of acid to the metal.
Frames made of Nickel Silver or Monel are those that have issues with corrosion with some patients.
Soooo.....do I get that drink?
Rick4003
Seeing this posting the first time I would like to add my 5 cents.
I have come up with an easy to apply coating which TOTALLY prevents metal frames from oxydising as well as plastic frames from turning white.
Just dap on the coating, wait five minutes, then buff it with a tissue paper. Problem permantly solved.
The green stuff under the nose pad comes off easily in the ultrasonic cleaner.
Chris,
Care to share what the coating is and where to get it? Many of us would benefit from a product like that. I know we all are carefull about promoting products but I would sure like to know what the coating is and where I could get some.
As far as the green nose pads getting clean in an ultrasonic...sure...if it's surface dirt and corrosion... but if the insert of the pad is green or the acids have penetrated, I just change them out.
Rick
Rick,rick4003 said:
Chris,
Care to share what the coating is and where to get it? Many of us would benefit from a product like that. I know we all are carefull about promoting products but I would sure like to know what the coating is and where I could get some.
As far as the green nose pads getting clean in an ultrasonic...sure...if it's surface dirt and corrosion... but if the insert of the pad is green or the acids have penetrated, I just change them out.
Rick
You can get it from OMS at 800-461-6637. It's called Frame Protec and you can also see it on the website at
http://optochemicals.com
unique lenses
:idea: Heres a little something you can do to make a more unusual pair of lenses. Take a semi rimless frame where you have a high minus lens. Put the first groove near the front like you normally would.
.....Then move the grooving wheel slightly back and make a second parallel groove. Tie the lens in with a colored peice of monfilament, and then paint the second groove some sort of matching color.
.....If you want to go all out ,you could even frost the edges beforehand, paint one groove blue, tie it in with red monofilament, and there you go a nice pair of patriotic glasses, red, white and blue.
this works well with the rim titanium from lindberg as well for those of you that sell them.
Harry, tried your double groove idea. Really Cool! I used a -7 with ar and I also treated the edges in a crux tint bath. I dont know if it's just the thickness of the lens but the treatment made it look like it was tinted and then sent out for ar. Fun Day!
Thanks!
bridge
If you are trying to make a large nose look smaller try a frame with a dark saddle bridge.
Yep, had that happen awhile ago. Back when I worked in a surfacing lab there were two instances where we got lenses from a bad lot and the adds were marked a diopter off give or take. We had to go through all of the lens drawers looking for the bad lot numbers; what a pain.dfisher said:
I was referring to the engraved add power on the lens. Since these engravings are molded into the lens front, if one is wrong, so would be tens of thousands.
screw holes
Often when you first take a wire frame apart at the barrels, you will notice the screw is quite tight through the first barrel. This is usually because of various junk, platings, etc, that work there way in there during the manufacturing process.
.....This often makes turning the screw more difficult once you hit the second barrel which has the threads. Take the screw out completely and take your small reamer or broaching tool and clean out the first barrel that is not threaded.
.....Be careful not to ream too much, just enough where the screw will turn around easily. Now your screws and barrels will go together easily.
The case: 3 piece with notches in the lens. in detail: 4 holes per lens.
The Complaint: One Notch Hole is bigger
Result: loose lens near the bridge area; you can manually move the lens.
Solve: If you know of clip on sunglasses; they have resin exactly where the lens will be hold; so the metal holder wouldn't scratch the lens. You cut off the excess resin from "clip-on sunglasses lens' holder"
Then You put this resin tube inside the notch hole, then you put the whole bridge which has the notch metal on it. The rest is standard procedure for all 3 piece mountings.
The end result: The 3 piece lens mounting which holds very tightly.
If anyone has other ways to solve this, feed back appreciated.
:D
Restringing grooved rimless frames
I don't know if this has been posted already as I have not read all 18 pages in this thread.
Here goes,
Restringing grooved rimless frames can be a pain to get the correct line length and fit the first time.
The tried and true method I use is to start at the nasal side (cut line at an angle, I use fingernail clippers) with the line in both holes and cut the tag end to finished length. Then put the line into the temple side bottom hole from the inside of the frame leaving yourself plenty of slack to work with. Place the lens into the frame making sure the fig 8 liner is in the groove all the way around, while holding the lens firmly in the frame (this may take some practice unless you have 3 hands) pull the line end you have at the temple side slowly as you guide it into the the exposed groove. when it is snug pull the line tight at the 180 axis till the lens fits the frame and line with no gaps present. Pull the line back on itself tightly as if you are doubling it into the groove, be sure to pull it tightly enough to make a "kink" in the line which will serve as a length reference in the line. Remove the lens and put the line into the top hole and pull it through till the "kink" is at the holes. Leave an even amount of line from both holes to the apex of the "kink" about 1-2 mm and pull all of this slack and "kink" though the top hole till the "kink" has just barely come through the inside of the eyewire. cut the tag end to finished length. Mount the lens into the frame without worry if it is too tight or loose.
However if the line is a bit loose you can heat it some, in either the bead pan, hot air warmer or with a bic lighter to "shrink it". Be careful with the lighter though, you need to move it fast and keep it moving so as not to burn the line, you can actually see it shrink up as you heat it.
Hope this helps you as much as it has helped me.
The case: 3 piece with notches in the lens. in detail: 4 holes per lens.
The Complaint: One Notch Hole is bigger
Result: loose lens near the bridge area; you can manually move the lens.
Solve: If you know of clip on sunglasses; they have resin exactly where the lens will be hold; so the metal holder wouldn't scratch the lens. You cut off the excess resin from "clip-on sunglasses lens' holder"
Then You put this resin tube inside the notch hole, then you put the whole bridge which has the notch metal on it. The rest is standard procedure for all 3 piece mountings.
The end result: The 3 piece lens mounting which holds very tightly.
If anyone has other ways to solve this, feed back appreciated.
----------------------------WHAT A GREAT IDEA OdTech-------------------
Thinking of this I would say that shrink tubing would also work. Just in case you don't have any clips to pirate the tube from!
Shrink tubing is great to have on hand. They make great cable covers and Clip-on replacement tubing. I have also used larger sizes to cover old temple tips when I don't have a proper replacement. They are quite comfortable and gets the patient out of a jam when the tip is cracked or just plain old.
Of course I always use shrink tubing as a cover for my ptosis crutches too...I'm sure we all have to deal with those every day...lol...;-)
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