Page 16 of 48 FirstFirst ... 6111213141516171819202126 ... LastLast
Results 376 to 400 of 1198

Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #376
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Only City in the World built over a Volcano
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    12,996
    Texas Ranger:

    If the patient is a dear friend, a neurotic pain in the --- or attractive enough, a lot of them (especially the older ones) who remember when we made a lot of glasses this way before the Federalies and the Trial Lawyers started protecting us. There really weren't that many problems, just most people now spend more time in classes on how to "protect themselves" than how to care for the patient.

    Chip:cheers:

    P.S. I haven't actuallly looked up the law on this but I am rather sure it has a stated provision that the precriber may sign such a waiver.

  2. #377
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb

    :idea: If you have one of those snap in nose pads thats old and hard to remove and the backing is poly, try heating it a little first and they will usually pop right out.
    .....Anytime you are having a hard time removing one of these pads, always hold the pad arm with a pair of snipes. This will prevent the pad arm from twisting out of shape and possibly breaking. This is especially a good idea when using a pad popper tool.

  3. #378
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb overly precise

    When ordering seg heights, you will probably make it a lot easier and find less mistakes if you leave out the .5mm bit. If you want 21.5, make a decision as to 21 or 22.
    .....Reason is if you send in a frame with a "B" measurement of 45.5, the lab is not going to split that in half and measure in 1/4 mm,s, not to mention you dont need it that close.

  4. #379
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb i need a 48/18 frame

    :idea: From time to time you will have a patient walk in and remark i need a 48/18 frame. The only time this is true for sure is when you are replacing the same frame.
    ..... When looking at frames , besides the bridge size, there is the splay angle. This is the angle that the bridge comes at downward. Thus if you have an 18 bridge with a splay angle of 30 degrees, versus a splay angle of 45 degrees, you will find the frame with the splay angle of 30 degrees fits a larger nose, even though they are both 18 mm bridges.
    .....Also to note is the fact that in some foreign made frames{for reasons i dont understand} the bridge measurement is not taken across the 180 degree datum line , but measured higher up, thus if you measure the bridge across the actual datum line you may get a wider reading.
    .....You can usually tell these frames by looking at the pattern that is supplied and you will, notice the three holes for mounting on your edger are much higher then usual instead of in the middle of the pattern
    Last edited by harry a saake; 06-14-2002 at 08:53 PM.

  5. #380
    OptiBoard Apprentice Kim Scheidler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2000
    Location
    Kansas City, MO USA
    Occupation
    Optical Wholesale Lab (other positions)
    Posts
    13
    Hi there Harry,

    As I understand it there are 2 ways the mfg. measures frame sizes, the datum method and the boxing method.

    The boxing method will measure the bridge size at the closest point between the 2 lenses.

    The datum method uses the distance between the lenses at the datum line. This is at the center of the frame vertically.

    If you see a frame marked 44-18 it was possibly/probably measured using the datum system, if there is a square or box between the 2 numbers than they used the boxing system.

    Kim

  6. #381
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb focimeter, vertometer, lensometer pins

    :idea: When marking up lenses with your lensometer/vertometer, you should only have to once gently apply the three pins to the lens to get a marking.
    .....I constantly see opticians banging the three pins against the lens three or four times with enough force to almost break the lens.
    .....If you are not getting ink on the lenses take a minute to find out why, maybe the well is to dry and needs some water or ink, or maybe one of the pins is stuck.
    .....It is common to see the pins stuck as ink rolls down them and hardens and sometimes even gets into the spring. Simply take it apart and wash it in hot water or alcohol. Actually this should be routine maintainence.
    .....While your at it take the cover off and lightly grease the slides on the lensometer/vertometer, it will last longer, this should also be routine maintainence.

  7. #382
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb dispensing new glasses

    :D When dispensing a new pair of spectacles, i find it to work better without the mirror at first. Normal reaction from the patient is to look right into the mirror as soon as you dispense the spectacles, at which point they will be quick to point out anything wrong before you have had a chance to finish.
    .....Simply approach the patient and tell them you are going to adjust their spectacles first, and then you will supply a mirror so they can see what they look like.

  8. #383
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Only City in the World built over a Volcano
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    12,996

    Basic Soldering Hints

    1) When soldering, remove all foriegn matter except the basic metal from the areas to be joined.
    2) Place all pieces to be joined in a position as near as possible to the place you wish them to reside when finished. If possible clamp them together with gentle pressure.
    3) Heat the pieces to be joined to a temperature slightly higher than the melting temperature of the solder.
    4) Apply flux, solder and heat, make sure that heat is sufficent to cause the solder flow smoothly.
    5) Do not touch any metal parts near repair until cooled. If possible to allow solder to cool naturally. If quick-chilled this can weakened or crack the solder joint.
    6) Buff, grind, or whatever to remove all irregular surfaces.
    7) Coat or paint as desired.

    Chip

  9. #384
    Bad address email on file
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dubbo, New South Wales, Australia
    Posts
    20
    another way to check UV absorbtion

    suspend the lens over a sheet of white paper in one of those transitions lenses demo black light units.

    the paper should glow with the black light turned on except where the lens is above the paper.

  10. #385
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb upselling

    This works very well in particular with sunglass sales. Patient mentions they want sunglasses. Say to them DO YOU WANT THE BEST OR THE ORDINARY. Now show them a regular pair of sunglasses, and then a polarized, using of course the polarized demonstrating picture which you should have. You can now point out one lens is as dark as the other, but look what the plarized lens does. They will buy the polarized 70 percent of the time.

  11. #386
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Mt. Vernon Ohio
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    873

    Lightbulb Did you ever

    have a screw that you couldn't get out of one side of the front of a metal frame because it wouldn't hold the lens?

    I found that once the joint is apart and the screw is stubborn that you put the end of the screw on the counter while you are turning and the pressure will help back out that relentless screw from the barrell.






    :bbg: Jerry
    The mighty oak tree was once a little nut that held its ground

  12. #387
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb staking tool kit

    :D A staking tool kit should be an integral part of every bench setup, Jerry in the previous post mentioned about putting pressure on the other side of the screw while turning the head to free the screw. This same thing can be done and frequently quite faster with this setup. There are just numerous tasks you can perform with this kit and a lot of times it will even save you from drilling. I believe both hilco and vigor make these kits.

  13. #388
    Bad address email on file
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    NM
    Occupation
    Optical Laboratory Technician
    Posts
    14

    Redhot Jumper Corroding temples

    We use a product that we get at a local electrical supply dealer. It is called shrink to fit or shrink wrap. It is a tubing that you measure the length of the temple and then apply heat to it. It then shrinks around the temple and puts a protective barrier between the temple and your customers head. It is clear in color so not as noticeable. One tip, when you are ready to heat it up, grab your favorite lighter and begin to heat the shrink wrap in the middle using the blue flame otherwise you will burn it.

  14. #389
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Only City in the World built over a Volcano
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    12,996
    Optibrat:

    I shrinks quite well with any heat source. An air frame warmer works very well and does not burn or discolor the heat shrink tubing. Eventually sweat, etc. will get underneath the shrink wrap and discolor (usually the same green/copper oxide color that old nose pads get.

    Hilco and others also make a dip you can coat your frames with and it will prevent corrosion and discoloration for over 3 years.

    Chip

  15. #390
    Bad address email on file optigoddess's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
    Location
    Oregon, USA
    Posts
    342

    I figured this out yesterday -

    You know when someone comes in to get nosepads replaced only to find out/figure out that they have superglued it in before they got there?

    I haven't quite figured out a great way to handle this situation (contrary to popular thought, swearing doesn't seem to help!;) )

    Yesterday, I decided to try something - I soaked the "offending piece" in some alcohol....then, my idea was first to use the hand punch but I couldn't get a comfortable angle - so, I came up with using the "pull down"/ sizing pliers -- I "crunched thru" the plastic twice and it broke the adhesion of the super glue just enough to easily get the stuck piece un-stuck!

  16. #391
    Snook Fishin' Optician Specs's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    PUNTA GORDA, FLORIDA-GROUND ZERO-CHARLEY
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    399
    I use a Dremel type drill and break up the pad by drilling it. We use a #57 bit. It breaks it right up and you can clean up all the residual crazy glue with that bit too.

  17. #392
    Bad address email on file APV Optical's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Texas
    Occupation
    Optical Wholesale Lab (other positions)
    Posts
    76

    Rimless Sizing.

    This one is probably something we all know, but all to often have I had someone tell me "I didnt know you could do that"! Anyway when a Patient with a rimless(nylor) frame greets you and the words "I dont know what the deal is, they keep popping out are the first you hear. Try this. Bearing you still have a heat pan (which being a young Optician still feel very necessary.) Dip the side of the frame and the Fishing string in the heat pan without the lens mounted. Leave it for about 5 to 10 secs, depending on the temp. Let it sit a few or dip the frame and string into some cold water. Now mount the lens, and tell the Patient, (It will never happen again.) The heat will shrink the string, careful not to leave in the heat for too long.

  18. #393
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb frames

    :D This may sound quite basic, but every once in awhile go around your frame boards and clean off the demonstration lenses that will usually be full of fingerprints, and the nose pads that will be full of cosmetics and other grime.
    .....While your at it look at the frames and see if they have a good four point stance, so when the customer trys it on it does not sit crooked. At the same time have the temples at the correct width where most people will be able to put them on and not reply these are too loose or too tight.

  19. #394
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb airlocks

    :idea: I have noticed that more often then not these frames have a propensity to sit on the patients face with more then the usual amount of face wrap that you would use. The culprit seems to be the bridge. I simply hold my two thumbs in the center of the bridge and push slightly back. This will uncurve the bridge somewhat, making the frame sit somewhat straighter across the face. Those of you who are doing these in house of course can do this ahead of time
    .......Do not attempt to push where the stud is mounted in the hole as you may find it will pop out, as it is nothing more then a short serrated stud compressed into a plastic bushing, and can pull out with too much pressure.

  20. #395
    Master OptiBoarder Cindy Hamlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    Chester, VA
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,598

    Re: Did you ever

    MVEYES said:
    have a screw that you couldn't get out of one side of the front of a metal frame because it wouldn't hold the lens?

    I found that once the joint is apart and the screw is stubborn that you put the end of the screw on the counter while you are turning and the pressure will help back out that relentless screw from the barrell.
    :bbg: Jerry
    I have found when I have problems with a screw that won't come out that a little time in the salt pan will usually take care of it.
    ~Cindy

    "If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning." -Catherine Aird-

  21. #396
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Amravati, Maharashtra, India
    Occupation
    Optical Retail
    Posts
    533

    Re: I figured this out yesterday -

    [QUOTE]optigoddess said:
    You know when someone comes in to get nosepads replaced only to find out/figure out that they have superglued it in before they got there?
    Yesterday, I decided to try something - I soaked the "offending piece" in some alcohol....



    All co holes of the frame would love it !! Hic... I avoid hangovers and use Acetone instead.

    :cheers: :bbg:

  22. #397
    OptiBoard Professional yzf-r1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2002
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Occupation
    Optometrist
    Posts
    111

    dotting pupil centre

    Many people have difficulty dotting the pupil centre on a demo lens especially in people with dark irides. The method i use is to mark the nasal and temporal edges of the iris and dot a point halfway between these two marks. It works quite well, but i would be interested to hear would other people think in particular if they can see any potential problems with this method. (i havent been using it for too long)

  23. #398
    Rising Star shimsham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    U.K.
    Occupation
    Optical Retail
    Posts
    76
    i just draw a horizontal line through the middle of the iris to establish heights and then use a pupilometer or pd rule to take mono centres.

  24. #399
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2000
    Location
    lake norman, north carolina
    Occupation
    Dispensing Optician
    Posts
    2,099

    Lightbulb dark iris

    :D A small penlight shined in from the side is another method you can use.

  25. #400
    Rising Star shimsham's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    U.K.
    Occupation
    Optical Retail
    Posts
    76
    or take the dark lenses out and put some clear tape over the frame, then mark that instead.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 3 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 3 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. in home dispensing
    By Dannyboy in forum General Optics and Eyecare Discussion Forum
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 11-12-2002, 06:45 PM
  2. Need some Marchon temple tips...
    By Pete Hanlin in forum General Optics and Eyecare Discussion Forum
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-14-2002, 06:47 PM
  3. Alaska Opticianry Licensing Law Hit Hard
    By MVEYES in forum Professional and Educational Organizations Discussion Forum
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 06-04-2002, 09:27 AM
  4. Optical Dispensing News
    By Joann Raytar in forum General Optics and Eyecare Discussion Forum
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 02-05-2002, 08:51 PM
  5. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-27-2001, 08:36 PM

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •