TIPS ON DISPENSING

[harry a saake]

As we all know , you usually need a third hand when putting together a spring hinge. You little bench mounted vise grip works great for this purpose. Simply put the temple into the vise grip, but on the flat part of the temple, do not squeeze the spring hinge it self. Now that you have the vise grip holding the temple you can now push it together with one hand an when the holes are aligned you can slip in the screw.

[Excel-Lentes]

After plunging screwdrivers deep into my fingers on numerous occasions I figured a way that has really helped me out putting spring hinge temples on frame fronts.

1. Line up the barrels as close as they will go

2. Insert a push pin thru barrel and remove

3. The barrels should still be lined up. If not, press the barrels on the frame front together with a parallel-jaw plier and repeat step 2.

4. Put screw in and tighten.

The spring hinge screws work better but I am too cheap to buy them. I will only use those when my method fails and that is not common.

-b:shiner:

[harry a saake]

:idea: When adjusting an end piece on almost any metal frame, it is best done with two end pliers. Simply taking one plier and bending in on the end piece puts all the stress and strain where its welded together.
.....Holding the end piece with one end plier, take the other end plier and bend the end piece where it is bent at a 90 degree angle. This keeps all the pressure off the weld.
.....This same application should be used when adjusting the metal end pieces on those big old plastic combination ladies frames,although you will find on those type frames that sometimes you have to unscrew the end pieces first in order to be able to hold them and bend them.

[sandeepgoodbole]

To chek Ultraviolet Absorpation of Non Changing Lens,( without any Instruments) I put a Photochromatic Lens over it and hold in the Sun.If the colour of Photochromic Lens changes,it means the UV lens is not performing it's duty.

[harry a saake]

:D In my ultrasonic cleaner i use a combination of water, blue dawn liquid detergent and add a little isopropyl alcohol just before using it.
.....I,m sure there maybe some other cleaners that are better and would like to see them posted.
.....I also keep my toothbrush that i use for cleaning these old dirty frames in the ultrasonic when not using it. Keeps the bristles clean while it cleans the frame. Just attach a wire to the toothbrush so you can hanf the brush over the side of the unit without it falling in.

[harry a saake]

:idea: Instead of showing your patients a 75mm tinted blank, try putting together a bunch of frames you no longer need and tint the lenses so they can put them on and see what it really looks like on them, rather then fumbling around with a 75 mm blank as most places do. Try and use thin metal frames so they pay attention to the tint only. I believe you can still buy small monocular holders which will also work well. It,s also a lot neater. Nothing like a bunch of thumb prints on a large blank that you are now going to hand to the patient and have them look through it.

[MVEYES]

I have an old frame that I put the same Rx in both sides to except one side has standard CR39 and the other Hi Index aspheric lenses. Works great with the hi myopes and hi hyperopes.


:D Jerry

[harry a saake]

:cheers: When dispensing transition lenses, darken them first in front of the patient, so they can see that they turn and also as they walk out they will have some tint in the glases just as it was when they entered with their old glasses. An ultraviolet light does this well and seems to speed up the initial activation process. Nothing worse to a photochromatic wearer, then to walk out in the bright sunlight and have no tint. Most of them are use to having some residual tint from their old glasses.

[Specs]

Make up a demo pr. of eyeglasses with plano on one side, plano w/anti-reflective on the other, what a selling tool.

[harry a saake]

:idea: Heres a way of providing a little extra service, to set you apart from the rest. When selling a rimless frame, have available the monofilament in different colors, and show these to the patient. Let them choose the color they want and you will probably find you can sell a tint along with it, and coordinate the frame color,tint and monofilament color. Little extra work, but it will make the glases stand out from the rest.

[hcjilson]

I just learned this at noon today prooving that you can teach an old dog new tricks.(there is also the possibility that everone already knows this and I am behind the curve AGAIN!)

A simple way to deduct 90 degrees from a 3 numbered axis is to add the first 2 numbers together and put in next to the last number.

For example
find the 90 degree reciprocal of 146

1+4=56

90 degress from 128= 38

etc.

This came from an opthalmic tech's class and I'd never come across before.

Best to all from hj who has been known to use an adding machine AND an abbacus to make this computation!

[harry a saake]

:D Another simple thing you can dop when you have an axis in three numbers is subtract 100 and then add 10 to the answer. example 153 minus 100 equals 53, plus 10 equals 63.

[harry a saake]

:idea: Every once in a while you will get a frame where the barrels are stuck together, even after you have removed the screw. When this happens do not try to pull it apart as this will get the frame out of shape. Simply take it and swirl it through the salt pan and you will usually feel it pop apart. On occasion the finish of the frame gets in between the barrels and acts like a glue.

[MVEYES]

Do any of you use silicone temple covers? I take one of these covers and put it on my optical screw drivers and wrenches for better grip.



:cheers: Jerry

[Excel-Lentes]

Here is a tip for measuring fitting heights on PAL's:

After pre-adjusting the frame (pads, panto, face form, etc..)
get eye level with the patient and spot center pupil with a felt tip marker. Once you have the spots on the lens talk with the patient a bit and note if the spots still line up with center pupil
(you may notice that when you take measurements the patient may have assumed an unnatural posture).

Now, have the patient stand up. Look at how they hold their head and see how this affects their viewing position through the lens. You may find that they slouch a bit or hold their head back and look down their nose at you. Adjust the height accordingly.

This might save you from dropping the frame down or raising it up once the glasses are completed. I learned from my daze as a carpenter that you measure twice, cut once.

-Brendan Walsh

[harry a saake]

:idea: When a patient decides on a mirror coat, make sure you do not tint the lens to dark, as the mirror on top will now make it even darker. If a patient wants a G-15 with mirror, it is probably best to make G-31 with mirror.

[harry a saake]

:idea: When using the snap and tap screws, break them off slightly above the barrel, instead of evenly at the barrel. This way you can now peen them over with your optical hammer and anvil. Then take your toe file and file lightly until nice and smooth. This is an almost sure fire way to prevent the screws from backing out.

[Don Lee]

Jo said:
...Now my search for an answer. What is anyone's method for removing a lens from a grooved rimless mount whithout chipping it when it is in there good and extra snug.

[This message has been edited by Jo (edited 10-30-2000).]

If it's a minus lens there is very little chance of chipping the lens, but it can happen. Never pull the line toward the front or back surface of the lens until you've pulled it away from the lens and cleared the edge. With those very thin plus edges you may need to use an axis adjusting plier, as mentioned previously, in order to make room for the ribbon to fit.

Personally, I'd cut the line with a razor and remount. It's better than ordering a new lens and looking like a goof in front of the customer.

Don

[Don Lee]

Harry,

This is a great idea. I always had the impression that this is was the purpose of the Dispensing portion of the forum.

Live and learn.

Don

[chip anderson]

Jo:

If you really have a problem with this:
A: The lab is probably making the edges too thin or grooving too much to one side.
B: Cut the line with a razor blade and re-string, fishing line is cheap and plentiful.

Chip

[harry a saake]

:D Hi Jo, there were a number of posts on this back towards the beginning of this thread in about 1910. Seriously you might also try smoothing out the edges of the rimless lenses by one of two methods. First you can use one of these real fine emery boards, also if you have an old fashioned brown ceramic stone, run the edge of the lens around it real lightly, making sure you have water running on the stone. As Chip and others have mentioned, if i was unsure i would cut the line with a blade, and cut it off between the two holes on one end or the other.

[harry a saake]

:idea: At one time or another we probably have all cracked a lens when cutting off the screw in back of a rimless mounting, because we applied too much pressure to fast.
.....Next time try cutting around the screw at several different points, going around in a 360 degree circle. the screw will get real thin in the middle and you can snap it off easily and then use your toe file to smooth the rough edges.
......For the shops with a larger budget, you can buy one of those little dremel tools, and cut off the screw with the little wheel. If you use this method it is best most of the time to put a little tape around the screw hole in case you slip.

[chip anderson]

Harry:

How many of these old experienced opticians do you think know what "Burnishing" is?

Chip

[Texas Ranger]

Excel-lentes, Another thing that is helpful with measuring fitting hts. for pals,etc, is after you dot the lens, take a piece of scotch tape, place it horizontally across the lens at and below the dot on each lens, then you'll be able to be sure that 1. the pt is seeing over the tape easily, and 2. that there may be a monocular height variance, which will be more obvious doing this; I always assume that few folks have equal monocular PD's, and seg hts. and some are greatly different. And that very narrow pds are not very good candidates for pals. and PS, we way prefer the tiny dot made by a Sharpie ultra fine point marker; the felt tip is too big a dot.

[harry a saake]

:finger: One of the biggest reasons the thermostats burn out so much on the dyepots is incorrect setting of them. You should never turn on the unit with the thermostat all the way up to apx. 200 degrees, this causes a surge and eventually does in the thermostat. Before turning on, have the thermostat turned all the way down, and then slowly turn it up to the correct temperture. Conversly when shutting down the dyepot turn the thermostat down first and then turn off the switch.