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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #301
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Harry

    To add to that great reply, I put my thumb at the temple curve at the back of the ear to allow a rounded drop of the temple tip for better patient comfort. The temple curving idea you mentioned is a must with people demanding smaller frames. I also liked the idea of preadjusting the frame on my face (new glasses only) before I take it out to the patient.


    Jerry

  2. #302
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    They bombed my draftbaord!

    Actually I was drafted into the Army. Then my draftboard was bombed. Never heard from them. Got nervous. Wanted to do school, marriage etc. and didnt want any surprises. So, I went to enlist. CO said I didn't exist!
    I needed that news like a whole in the head!
    So, I got a couple buddies to request my service in San Francisco. Oh darn . . . terrible duty . . . terrible. Fitting glasses by the Golden Gate Bridge with 2 optometrist buddies.
    Tsk,tsk,tsk!

    I left my . . . . pdstick .. . .. in San Francisco!

    Like my voice?

    PS Still waiting to get drafted . . . . I'm 57. Suppose its too late?

  3. #303
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Crier Drafted

    I was in my senior year at Wright State University when I had to take that test for the draft to stay in school. I was 5 weeks into basic training at Lackland AFB when my mom wrote me that the Army had sent a letter to me that I had been drafted and to report to my draft board. Good timing huh.

    Jerry
    ps That was before I knew what a PD stick was

  4. #304
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Frame designing 101

    Hi everyone,

    I just cut a full metal and created a string mounting out of it. Lay the frame on graph paper and mark off where you want to make the cuts. After you cut it take an optical hammer and flatten the metal some at the tips of the cuts. Drill holes in two places next to each other at each of the tips. Super glu the original screw at the endpiece to keep it stable. Mark your lens where you want to flatten and hand groove. Restring and VOILA you have a new frame. PS take a file and smooth the ends that you cut.


    Jerry

  5. #305
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    MYEYES:

    Bravo! How did you handle beveling the top half of the lens and grooving the bottom?

    Chip

  6. #306
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Chip,

    I beveled the whole lens first, then marked the lens where I wanted to flatten for the groove. I hand groved to finish the lens.


    :drop: Jerry



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  7. #307
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb frames

    You can do this with most frames Chip, what actually happens is you leave the V bevel on the top and sides and then flatten the rest of the lens and then groove it. You have to do this as there is no liner on top of a regular full metal or plastic frame. You can do this same act with a plastic frame also and come up with some interesting combos.

  8. #308
    Optical Educator
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    Hi Harry,

    It sounds lovely.

    BRAVO AGAIN,


    Laurie

  9. #309
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Hi all

    If you want to relieve the pressure on the nose from adjustable nosepads is to reverse the D-shape pad so that it is wider at the bottom then the top. You can do this by switching the left pad for the right and vice versa.


    Jerry

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  10. #310
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Hi All,

    If you want to insert a high-minus lens into a zyl frame easily, wet the lens and rub a bar of soap over the bevel. Heat the frame slightly and slip the lens in easily.



    Jerry



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  11. #311
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Hi All

    If you want to verify a bifocal prescription in a lensometer, put the lens on the stage with the front of it facing the lens stop. Read the lens to be checked distance power and then the lens bifocal power from this side of the glasses .




    Jerry


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  12. #312
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Back again

    If you want to check for UV protection in a lens and you don't have a UV meter take a Fluorescein strip and put a drop of water on the strip. Hold the lens to be checked between you and a black light and if the strip does not glow you have UV protection in the lens.


    Jerry


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  13. #313
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb polarized lenses

    :idea: When ever dispensing polarized lenses, prior to dispensing them you should have a polarized checker. Simply take a lens that you know is polarized, and edge it into some lens shape that you can tell which way the 180 line is. Holding up the glasses with the new polarized lenses, hold the test lens over it and then turn it 90 degrees to the right. When your test lens is at 90 instead of 180 the the whole lens color will turn black and you should see nothing through it. Its common for labs to edge polarized lenses 90 degrees off when they lay them out. On bifocals this will probably never happen, or at least i have never seen one. This is also a great way to tell if a lens is polarized at all. Customers will some times bring in lenses convinced there polarized, simply pull out your test lens and you can all see.

  14. #314
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    nice little trick

    :cheers: When you get one of those customers with lenses that fall out or rotate a little, you can easily tighten that up in a minute or so. I learned this for fixing clip on lenses that shrink(from the Minnesota cold), it works nicely. Simply heat the lens a bit, take a towel and fold it on the counter, place the lens on towel front curve up and fold towel over it ( so as not to burn your hand), place palm over lens and press firmly and hold while cooling.
    Be careful with A/R coated and hi-index lenses of course, don't think you can use this to make up for a poorly cut lens.
    Give it a shot!
    Christopher

  15. #315
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Wave Re: polarized lenses

    Originally posted by harry a saake
    :idea: When ever dispensing polarized lenses, prior to dispensing them you should have a polarized checker. Simply take a lens that you know is polarized, and edge it into some lens shape that you can tell which way the 180 line is. Holding up the glasses with the new polarized lenses, hold the test lens over it and then turn it 90 degrees to the right. When your test lens is at 90 instead of 180 the the whole lens color will turn black and you should see nothing through it. Its common for labs to edge polarized lenses 90 degrees off when they lay them out. On bifocals this will probably never happen, or at least i have never seen one. This is also a great way to tell if a lens is polarized at all. Customers will some times bring in lenses convinced there polarized, simply pull out your test lens and you can all see.
    Simpler than that..
    Hold your Desk /pocket Calculator,Or Digital diary, Mobile Phone, or Pam Top, or any gadget that uses LCD disply, and easily available where ever you are, Make the equp. "ON" and Rotate the lens till the Display disappers completely and mark the position.:idea:

  16. #316
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb oversize screws

    :idea: When you have a frame with a stripped out screw and you cant get the next size to go in, simply take a reamer(the optical sets usually come with 5 sizes) and slightly ream out the barrel that the screw first goes through, where the new larger screw will turn easily. Now you can start rethreading the old barrel that was stripped with a slightly larger screw. Remember when retapping that some times you have to go forward and then turn backwards to get the excess metal out of the new larger screw,or it may break off. The hilco snap and taps are ideal for this situation.

  17. #317
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb screws

    :idea: Her,s an idea i,m suprised that is not used more. So you dont ruin the head of the screw that belongs to the frame, use an old long screw with the same thread when you are sizing the lens. This will also give you the luxury of not having to put the barrels together each time along with the screw. If its a little big simply back off the screw a couple of turns and the lens will come out but the frame will be held together. Now when your sure the lens is down to size take out the screw and put in the one that belongs there and you have only used it once. saves ******ed up screw heads.

  18. #318
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Arrow Re: Frame designing 101.1

    Originally posted by MVEYES
    Hi everyone,

    I just cut a full metal and created a string mounting out of it. Lay and VOILA you have a new frame. PS take a file and smooth the ends that you cut.
    Jerry
    In case of Plastic or frames without Two Buds of Nose pads, you have to determine the point of Cutting by actually placing the frame over the nose of the user. Other wise..glass will rest on the nose.
    We can groove only in the portion required with the machine we have got. Upper portion remains easily hand grindable.
    Bye the way, was it worth Extra reward you got for doing all this Cratfing? :hammer:

  19. #319
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Exclamation Running Away Nose Pad screws..

    The threads are oftenly too delicate at the Nose Pad holders, even if they are in good condition and screws frequntly abscond.
    Now, again tring to put a new screw will be a bit tricky.
    So, simply use a small pin, yes, the paper pin, which can go in side the Nose pad holder , bend from other side to make it a "U'and cut with a plier at appropriate point so that no injury it can cause and point of cut becomes unreachable to fingure.
    :cheers: :cheers:

  20. #320
    Snook Fishin' Optician Specs's Avatar
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    For the same problem, and a lot safer. If the thread is non-existant in a screw mount pad arm, I put instead of a screw or "pin", a piece of thick monofilament (80lb. test). First put the pad in place,then insert the mono. With a plier squeeze to flatten the mono so it can't fit through the hole. Cut the other side with about 2-3mm sticking through the hole. Then squeeze that side flat. The mono is now acting a little like a rivet. It looks good too. Better than a bent pin, and no sharp edges.

  21. #321
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb nose pads

    Specs idea is good as many of you might remember tho old logo frames had the nose pads tied in with a piece of monofilament of some type. In an emergency you can also take a toothpick and jam it in the hole ,snap it off and flatten the ends with a pair of snipes.

  22. #322
    OptiBoard Professional Don Lee's Avatar
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    Originally posted by harry a saake
    In an emergency you can also take a toothpick and jam it in the hole ,snap it off and flatten the ends with a pair of snipes.
    This also works for temple screws. I told my customers NOT to use repair kits or metal objects. Always let a pro wreck your glasses. A needle and thread works great, too.

    Don

  23. #323
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Really cool!

    [QUOTE]Originally posted by specs13
    [B]For the same problem, and a lot safer. If the thread is non-existant in a screw mount pad arm, I put instead of a screw or "pin", a piece of thick monofilament (80lb. test).


    Fine! I will find out what a mono filament is. Never heard on these latitudes and longitudes. Why cann't frame makers forget their habbit of screws every where? Can Specs13, think quick, and get a Petant of this idea !! Call us for a celebration !

  24. #324
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb mono

    :DSandeep. monofilament is nothing more then your ordinary fishing line. Go down to any fishing storee and buy a spool of 20 lb test line and a spool of 80 lb test. If you want i can asend you lots of this stuff.

  25. #325
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Big Smile Sandeep

    You know, I charged $25 for the job but I felt gratified more for being able to do take the frame and turn it into a rimless.



    :cheers: Jerry

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