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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #276
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Smilie final dispense

    When finally dispensing the finished glasses to a patient, instead of trying to put them on yourself the first time, hand it to the patient, all perfectly aligned and cleaned and say,my i have you try these on for me, or something to that effect.
    .....Almost immediatly you will see them look into the mirror before they do anything else. If the patient is a female in particular you may have to hand them to her several times, but she will like that as nobody can put them on right except her. Men do not seem to be as fussy about this aspect of frame fitting.

  2. #277
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Indian patients from India

    For those of you who have an indian population as patients i encourage you to read the post Sanddeep posted in the Opthalmic Optics section about this, in a reply to my question. It is under the title AGE OLD and on page 2, or maybe Steve can move it over here.
    .....I can tell you from experience that it does work and is appreciated by these patients, and my thanks to Sanddeep:cheers:

  3. #278
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Big Smile Sorry if I'm repeating anyones idea

    When restringing a rimless, I string all but the last hole on the temporal side of the frame and then insert the lens pulling the cord tight. I cut the cord as close to the frame as possible and take the lens back out. I finish looping the cord through the frame and put the lens back in the frame. I end up with a good tight fit quickly instead of spending lots of time guessing on cord length.


    Jerry Sherman
    PS hope to get through all these great suggestions

  4. #279
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Just around the Corner..

    Originally posted by MVEYES
    When restringing a rimless, I string all but the last hole on the temporal
    Jerry Sherman
    PS hope to get through all these great suggestions
    I found that while putting the thread inside the groove, the corner which is more near to 90 digs should be given prference.
    That gives you more thread and proportional more strech to the thread. The blunt corner should be the last , which does not require more strech as the available thread go on decreasing as one lays it.

  5. #280
    Master OptiBoarder Lee Prewitt's Avatar
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    Stringing Rimless

    One tip that I always use when stringing rimless is to cut the line on a 45 degree angle. This will make threading the hole supremely easier.
    Lee Prewitt, ABOM
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    AIT Industries
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  6. #281
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    ?

    Originally posted by Lee Prewitt
    One tip that I always use when stringing rimless is to cut the line on a 45 degree angle. This will make threading the hole supremely easier.
    You mean, instead of a round co planer cross section, it should be a slant..3 D \\ so that it has a point on the tip which goes in the hole very easily..right?

  7. #282
    Master OptiBoarder Lee Prewitt's Avatar
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    Re: ?

    Originally posted by sandeepgoodbole

    You mean, instead of a round co planer cross section, it should be a slant..3 D \\ so that it has a point on the tip which goes in the hole very easily..right?
    Correct, Think of it like a needle instead of a blunt twig. Thanks for the welcome by the way!
    Lee Prewitt, ABOM
    Independent Sales Representative
    AIT Industries
    224 W. James St.
    Bensenville, IL 60106
    Cell : (425) 241-1689
    Phone: (800) 729-1959, Ext 137
    Direct: (630) 274-6136
    Fax: (630) 595-1006
    www.aitindustries.com
    leep@aitindustries.com

    More Than A Patternless Edger Company

  8. #283
    i didn't quite follow MVEYES string up, but i normally put all but that lst hole on the temporal, string around lens... and then bend or kink the nylon thread in that spot.. its never quite tight enough, so i normally move the kink into the final hole, and slide it along about 1mm and then trim..


    Lee, i learnt that one in high school doing sewing (yay :( ) but i totally forgot it, thanks for jotting my memory!!

    Seeya all

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    MV:

    I string the chord nasal first, then string around lens through first hole on the temporal side tight, mark with a sharpie or similar pen and remove lens. I move the mark to just inside the upper hole and trim. Works every time when I do it right.

  10. #285
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Idea Chip

    :bbg:Your right, I forgot that step. I take a shortcut and cut it while the cord is still hanging out the temporal hole.

    Jerry

  11. #286
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Shrinking Zyl

    Hi all,

    Has anyone mentioned the way to tighten a lens in a Zyl frame? I heat the frame without the lenses in it and as soon as it is pliable, I put it in ice water. Just an old trick.

    Jerry

  12. #287
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Reading Progressive Distance Power

    Hi all,
    I have a Nikon OL-7 lensmeter. When I want to neutralize a progressive distance power I put the contact lens Lens table on the lensmeter. Then I mark the progressive by taking half the distance between the 180 markings and going up 4mm. I put a circle with a progressive pin in this area. I can find my distance quickly and have little problem with the aspheric surface because of the contact Lens table.

    Jerry

  13. #288
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Smilie Identifying a plastic SRC

    Hi everyone,
    Have any of you had to replace a lens for a patient who asked if their plastic lenses were scratch resistant? I found that if you dip a non SRC lens in water along with a SRC lens you can tell the difference. The SRC lens beads and rolls right off where the non SRC lens will disperse the water over the surface.

    Jerry

  14. #289
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    re: shrinking zyl

    Plastic frames (cellulous acetate variety) is "thermo contractive" in the sense that when you remove heat frm the plastic it shrinks. Ice water works, but tends to cool the plastic too soon thereby not allowing it to shrink to its max over a given period of time.
    Those of Jurrasic Opticians hold the plastic in as many places as we can whioe shaping the frame. This allows the heat to transfer to the hand slower whioe the technician controls the shape. In some cases when the plastic is excessively hot, we step into a closet and emit a primal scream.

    I think you'll find tap water works well, too.

    Finally, I use the ol "unstretch method". One only needs to kneed the frame by "nstretching" it (I suppose pushing on itself is a better term). This is good for a couple eye sizes and if you develop the skill well, you'll amaze the natives. Here again, hot plastic may evoke the urge for a primal scream unless you are incredibly macho and would prefer to pass out after everyone leaves!

    Ciao, baby!

  15. #290
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    time for a new keyboard

    sorry about the typos. 102 fever....back to bed go I!

  16. #291
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    Myeyes:

    If a lens is too small for a cellulose Acetate Butarate (Zyl) frame and the previously mentioned methods fail. Hilco and probably others make a cellulose inter liner in two diameters. This can either be applied either dry or after dipping for a short time in acetone (which makes both the glazing rim and the innerlliner slightly tacky and adhesive. You can take up quite a bit of slack withi this and if you're careful the results can very neat. This also works with metal frames but of course the metal will not become adhesive.

    But there is also an adhesive innerliner for metal, which will either stick the cellulose inter liner or help some "stubborn" mountings or slightly undersize lenses stay put.

    Ole, mean vendictive Chip

  17. #292
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Chip

    I have used liners with various adhesives but they come back to haunt me. The first time a metal frame is left in the car window, the heat takes care of the adhesive and then the screw loosens and voila the lens and liner drops out. The patient goes somewhere else to get it replaced and you later wish you just remade the lens.

    Jerry

  18. #293
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Re: Indian patients from India

    Originally posted by harry a saake
    For those of you who have an indian population as patients i encourage you to read the post Sanddeep posted in the Opthalmic Optics section about this, in a reply to my question. It is under the title AGE OLD and on page 2, or maybe Steve can move it over here.
    .....I can tell you from experience that it does work and is appreciated by these patients, and my thanks to Sanddeep:cheers:
    I am pasting the matter over here..Namste..

    Regarding Dots on the fore head..
    Well, when the red dot on Men, it's known as "Gandh", acctually, it's generally saffron coloured. When it's on a Lady, it's known as a "Kumkum" it should classically be Red only. But now a days, it may go with the Matching of the the other make ups and Dress.
    A widow will probably never use Red color.
    A Neckless of Black Beeds in Gold \ or Silver thread is a Must for a Married lady. It's name is "Mangal Sootra" The Husbands put it in the Marriage ceremony . And it stays in the Neck of the wife till her husband dies.
    The word with which we greet each other is "Namste".
    Pronounce "Nam" as in 'Num'ber "ms" as in 'mus't and te is to be pronounced by pressing the toung aginst the base of the upper teeth , and not by folding the tongue back in the roof of the mounth, as most words are pronounced in English. It shiould be soft.
    or "Namskaar" to be pronounced as Num ss car Meaning, I respect you. If the person is a Hindu, try Saying" Raamraa m"
    See an streched aa with an infinetismal pause before m It's a coloquial method since ages. I will try to attach a voice file..but that seems immpossible.. so. you have to wait to master the correct pronunciations till some body actually takes a lesson for that !
    Do not forget to join the hands just close to your own chest to go with all this Namste, Namskar and Raam Raam

    Regards!
    Sandeep

  19. #294
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Smilie Alan,

    You're right about the cool tap water working quite well to shrink zyl. I have had burning hands from shaping frames. Another trick for the split in the skin that those of you who use salt pans get salt in is to hold the split in the skin next to the nail on your hand together and put a drop of super glue on it until it dries. Don't touch the glue after you put it on or you'll find yourself in a sticky situation.

    :D Jerry

  20. #295
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    Note to Jerry

    Jerry . . .
    Are you sure you weren't in the same M.A.S.H. unit I was in?

  21. #296
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Alan

    Actually I was a medic in the Air Force from 1969 to 1973.

    Jerry

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    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Lightbulb Has anyone had a metal temple that could be 5 mm longer?

    Hi everyone,

    I came across a problem with a temple that was too short and not available in a longer size. I slipped off the temple cover and cliped a piece of temple end from an old junk temple that had the same outer diameter. I soldered the tip of the junk temple to the new temple and smoothed out the solder connection. Slip the cover back on and you've created a longer temple that fits.


    Jerry

  23. #298
    Master OptiBoarder Texas Ranger's Avatar
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    Smilie

    Jerry, Where were you at in the Air Force? Don't guess it matters for those dates, I got out of the Navy in '69. Couldn't do another tour in 'nam. '68, I was a Corpsman with a Seabee battalion in DaNang, and we were going back to DongHa at the end of '69, after we regroup in Rhode Island; Thank God my enlistment was up..turned down $10K and field promotion to E-6, have never regretted it, but 33 years later, it'd be nice if I had stayed around for retirement pay. ha ha. Vietnam was just too hot (in more ways than the temp). Glad to get home and back to the optical bizz.

  24. #299
    Master OptiBoarder MVEYES's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Alan,

    I was stateside. I was stationed at Davis Monthan in Tucson, Arizona. A friend of mine joined me in the lab there, just got back from Saigon. He told me that as he went from the hospital to the barracks that snipers would shoot at him. Not a good time!


    Jerry

  25. #300
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb temples

    :idea: Heres an idea you can use almost every day. As you may be aware, one of the biggest reasons for glasses slipping is excessive temple pressure. If you don, t believe this take both of your hands and press on the sides of your frame temples and watch them jump off your nose.
    .....In todays market of predominately small frames, and people becoming inherently larger, you have a bad situation, as it is likely these patients will want small frames to be in style.
    .....As many of you have noticed by now a lot of manufactures of frames, are now making the temples with a bow , instead of just going straight back, and that is the reason they are doing that.
    .....You can also do this yourself with very little practice. With the obvious exception of auto flex type frames, simply take the frame temples and flare them out more then you would usually. Then starting apx in the middle of the temple, start to curve it in towards you until it becomes a bow shape. Do this one side at a time, so you can custom fit it around both sides of the head, which will normally be different due to face assemetry.
    .....As a side benefit you will now notice that the whole spatula part of the temple will lie flat against the mastoid, where usually when you flare out the the temple the spatula part sits at a very awkward and annoying angle. Patients will also not remark about more space between the temple and the side of their head as there will be almost none.

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