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Thread: TIPS ON DISPENSING

  1. #251
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Re: MINUS lenses

    Originally posted by harry a saake
    :D If your going to buy a stock of minus lenses,buying the bigger blanks may be handier as they will fit almost any size frame you might use. Keep in mind that with a minus lens, no matter what the size of the blank, the edge and ct will be the same for any given rx. EX: a minus 5.00 cut from a blank 55mm,65mm or 80mm will have the same edge thickness from either lens as long as the ct,s are the same.
    Remember: reduce the dia of the bigger size blank to just a little more than required before starting surfacing. that reduces the posiibility of breakage. also lesser consumables are required.

  2. #252
    Bad address email on file optigoddess's Avatar
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    Sandeepgoodbole:

    Are you thinking of the "self-aligning spring hinge" screws by Hilco? Aren't they a great invention? ! ?

  3. #253
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    For Ph

    Dear Ph:

    On "case fitting". Most people when they adjust a temple for patoscopic angle meerly move the temple or strut up and down. The "symetrical fold" for the case can be achieve by taking the temple strut and bending at an angle in or out. This oddly enough does not affect the up and down for pantoscopic angle.

    Chip:cheers:

  4. #254
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    What's in a name?

    Originally posted by optigoddess
    Sandeepgoodbole:

    Are you thinking of the "self-aligning spring hinge" screws by Hilco? Aren't they a great invention? ! ?
    I do not know who invented it. But who so ever have done it, worth praise of the new millenium. I am in India, here , we have never heard of Hilco. Seems they are doing a great job. It appered to me that the Screws I had seen were of Indian Origin but nobody could show me those again!!

  5. #255
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Re: What's in a name?

    Originally posted by sandeepgoodbole


    I do not know who invented it. But who so ever have done it, worth praise of the new millenium. I am in India, here , we have never heard of Hilco.
    Hilco World-Wide Distributors; unfortunately there isn't a distributor in India.

  6. #256
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Re: Lenghten Temples

    Originally posted by gebe33
    An easy way to lenghten metal temples with temple tips is to cut off the amount you want to lenghten off of an old temple (I always keep out junk around) Remove the tip and put the cut off piece into the tip and put the tip back on the temple.
    Tom
    So Genius of you!!

  7. #257
    Snook Fishin' Optician Specs's Avatar
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    I bet Hilco would deal with you in India. You may have to pre-pay and pay substantially for shipping though. But, if something is not available where you are it may be worth it. Just charge a little more to clients when you have to use their products. I'd just tell them the part needed had to come all the way from the USA or other European distributorship. You can e-mail them to ask for details on dealing with you at: http://www.hilco-usa.com/fs_contact.htm
    Last edited by Specs; 11-13-2001 at 06:48 PM.

  8. #258
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Hilco..

    Originally posted by specs13
    I bet Hilco would deal with you in India. You may have to pre-pay and pay substantially for shipping though. But, if something is not available where you are it may be worth it. Just charge a little more to clients when you have to use their products. I'd just tell them the part needed had to come all the way from the USA or other European distributorship. You can e-mail them to ask for details on dealing with you at: http://www.hilco-u!sa.com/fs_contact.htm
    Thanks!
    I have requested all literature. We have some companies here to deliver those kinds of pliers and fixtures. So, I will try the things not available here.

  9. #259
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb

    :hammer: From time to time we have all had the situation where we needed a slightly larger screw, so that we could retap the barrel and make it hold. Usually what happens is the slightly larger screw will not go through the first unthreaded barrel.
    ..............:D When this happens take you reaming tool and make the first barrel slightly larger. Now the screw will go in easy and turn, and you can now start turning it into the second barrel with ease. PS. make sure you are reaming out the end of the barrel that is not threaded, in most cases this is the barrel on the bottom.
    ...........Also when you are doing this ,use the larger end of your screwdriver as it holds into the head of the screw better and you get less slippage. Remember to turn slowly and if you have to put a tiny amount of soap on the threads of the screw to make it urn easier. Most times you will not have to do this. I might add the Hilco snap and tap screws work wonderful in this procedure and are available in all sorts of sizes.

  10. #260
    Master OptiBoarder sandeepgoodbole's Avatar
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    Exclamation Jai Hind!

    Originally posted by ashish
    In India the climate in hot and humid. many frames even the good ones with metalic sides fade from inside after raecting with sweat.The customer comes back with complaint and rashes on his skin in some severe cases.
    Does anyone know of some way in which I can coat the inside if the frame with a transparent lacquer or epoxy to make it last longer?
    :idea:

    Since last about 6 years I am using I.V. SET Tubes for this purpose.Excellent results, happy customers.

  11. #261
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Question frames

    The gentlemen from India, this question has come up a number of times and if you will scroll back through these tips you will see it covered
    ............You can use shrink tubing which works great, you can put clear fingernail polish, but it doesnt last long, or you can use 100 % titanium frames, just make sure the finish does not have any nickel in it.

  12. #262
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    Frame Coatings

    Hilco has a coating that I have used on occasion. Patient's who normally rust-away a frame in a year show no signs of deterioration after 3 + years. I am sure that many of the lens coating companies have a clear non-corrosive dip.

    Downside on the Hilco, even in the states they take about 2 weeks and I think it cost about $ 15.00 a frame.

    Chip

  13. #263
    Master OptiBoarder Cindy K's Avatar
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    Here's a nifty little trick I devised to use on adds over +2.00 when:
    a) a PAL wearer assumes they don't need PALs in their sunwear
    b) a PAL wearer assumes that bifocals will be adequate
    c) a trifocal wearer assumes that bifocals will now be adequate

    On PALs, find the markings and apply a piece of opaque adhesive tape from the fitting cross to the top of the near circle to occlude the intermediate area. If its a tri, apply the tape only to the intermediate seg.

    Invariably. the client will take immediate note of what's missing but if not I send them out to their car to check out the dashboard with their pseudo s/v's or bif's.

    Hasn't failed me yet.

  14. #264
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Thumbs down contact suction cups

    :o These are probably one of the worst inventions, and if you want to do your patients a favor, throw them away and never sell them. People have been known to adhere it to the cornea and pull off the epithelium, not realizing the contact was already out or over to the side.

  15. #265
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    Suction Cups

    Harry;

    You make several assuptions on this: The person selling the lenses is willing to spend his valuable (to him) time actually instructing the patient on insertion and removal. He is actually willing to sit there and supervise while the patient learns and practices to at least the suspcion (sorry about the spelling) that the patient will be able to do this at home.

    This level of patient/practioner concern no longer exists. Now the doctor sells the lenses, inserts them has the office girl give the patient a brochure, collect the fee and tell the patient to take them out when they begin to bother him.

    Sorry Harrry, the concern for corneal health, the patient finding some day that he and the suction cup are not in the same location, or the risk of injury to the patient is of no concern. One must collect the most dollars in the shortest period of time.

    Chip

  16. #266
    Ophthalmic Optician
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    Didn't see this mentioned...How do you get the trash out of the groove on a polycarb groove ? We do the screw driver, the pins, nothing works well. Any ideas ?


    Another obvius tip: The shipping straps on the ReNu cases make great nylon mounting ribbons when cut into small pieces.

  17. #267
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Johns,

    We give the lens a light spin on the buffing wheel. Not quite a polish but it gives semi-reimless lenses a nice "finished" look.

  18. #268
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Lightbulb grooves

    John, if you go through the previous postings on this thread yopu wilkl find this subject has been well covered with a number of ways. I think there back near the beginning.

  19. #269
    Bad address email on file Don Lee's Avatar
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    Optical Tips

    If there's one thing I've learned to do it's "RIGHT IT DOWN!".

    That includes verifying the RX and comparing the new RX to the old RX. Checking the PD's, special orders, or whether any compensation was made for high powers.

    I list complaints about anything or anybody, what the customer expects, the type of work they do, or if the customer wants his flat tops unusually high or low.

    This may sound mundane or extremely elementary but since I've retired, and am filling in on occassion, it's mind boggling how little information is accumulated. Even something as simple as which progressive they're wearing! I've heard, "well we always use Brand X" and I notice that the customer is in "Brand ABC" with no reason written for the change :hammer:

    This not only prevents mistakes costing $$$ but provides a door to sell multiple pairs.

    Don

  20. #270
    since 1964 Homer's Avatar
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    Don .....

    AMEN!

  21. #271
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    To Johns Re: Cleaning up a groove on poly

    A coarse black emery board (like wet/dry on foam board) works really well.
    It smooths the edges of the groove which helps prevent chipping and also removes "sticky poly" residue.
    Usually once around does it. You'll go through a dozen a year. It also serves well to clean up poly residue on hideabevel.
    If all else fails you'll have nice nails before you're done!

  22. #272
    opti-tipster harry a saake's Avatar
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    Big Smile rolledeyewires

    :idea: An often overlooked factor in frames is eyewire rolling. While we normally associate this with plastic frames, metal can also roll and make it difficult to keep the lens in the eyewire. If its a plus lens you will notice it even more. You have to look at the eyewire 90 degrees perpendicular to you and see if it appears to angle one way or the other. If it is take a pair of fiber jaw pliers and gently bend the eyewire slightly frontwards. You will usually have to do this on the top and bottom.

  23. #273
    Bad address email on file Don Lee's Avatar
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    Warped Plastic Lenses

    Eventually plastic lenses become warped for whatever reason. If you remove the lenses from the frame and cover them in the salt pan for about 20 minutes the lenses will return to their orginal shape and the waves will vanish.

    Don

  24. #274
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    Attn: Don Lee

    Don't try putting very high index lenses in the salt pan, they crack and you can end up eating a high cost replacement.

    Unfortunately, the higher index the more likely they are to warp.

    Chip

  25. #275
    Bad address email on file Don Lee's Avatar
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    Re: Attn: Don Lee

    Originally posted by chip anderson
    Don't try putting very high index lenses in the salt pan, they crack and you can end up eating a high cost replacement.

    Unfortunately, the higher index the more likely they are to warp.

    Chip
    I was going to preface my statement with CR-39 but I was thinking it was common to call them plastic and the others by their given nicknames, i.e. polycarb, hi index, spectralite, brick...

    But it is good that you made mention of the fact that heat is bad news to the hi index family. That makes it very important to tell the customer to keep their hi index sunglasses off the dashboard and kept under the seat or in glove box.

    Don

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