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:) A lab tech of 20+ years that i work with takes progressive markings off with the bleach in the dye pots, its warm and wont hurt the lenses... works for me. Im sure someone out there will tell me its bad for the lenses but I havent seen problems yet.
[This message has been edited by jillybean (edited 12-06-2000).]
I agree with you Harry; nothing beats a little bit of heat and alcohol. Acetone works great on plastic lenses, outside of the risk of accidentally using it on a poly.Quote:
Originally posted by harry a saake:
When trying to remove those absurd PAL ink marks that all the manufactures seem to indulge in, most all of them will come off easier if you put them in a little hot water for about 30 seconds or you can steam them over the dye pot. afterwards use rubbing alcohol.
Hey Steph, try using a skinny plastic PD stick to get the poly out of the groove...it'll never scratch! By the way, how're those telescopes selling??? :D
[This message has been edited by Andrea (edited 12-06-2000).]
Fresnel Pasters (for the retarded this is a press on prism). These have been one of my nemesis'. I am interested in anyone's favorite method of application. I have heard and tried the ones below, and they are still a pain.
1) Heat them and the lens dry.
2) Apply under warm water.
3) Use contact lens wetting solution.
4) Press them on (Wish I could find a squeegee small enough.)
5) Stay so busy that another optician in the shop will get stuck with the job. This was my favorite until I became a one man store.
Any simple bright idea's out there?
Dear Chip,
#2 works for me.#5 used to work every time and was my absolute favorite until I decided to wind up my career as a one man shop as well!
# 6 works once in a while.-send them to your favorite wholesale lab and wait for them to come back,Then YOU can be the one complaining about the bubbles!Best From the Cape
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Harry J
[This message has been edited by hcjilson (edited 12-14-2000).]
Question: re: removing the "darn" PAL marks!! Is hot neutralizer ok on the AR lenses?
Jan, hot neutralizer won't hurt the AR, a swipe of acetone on a lab towel won't hurt it either. Al.
Tip for girls! When using acetone to remove markings, always use a Q-Tip so that the acetone doesn't take your nail varnish off. The boys in the lab will laugh at you, though.
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Maria "no amusing quote" K
Harry,Quote:
Originally posted by harry a saake:
<FONT COLOR=#FF0000>The purpose here is to start a thread, that if it works Steve will put in a permanent file.</FONT>
If you (or someone else) would like to compile all these tips into one text file, I'd be happy to put this in the OptiBoard Download directory.
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http://optiboard.com/gifs/steve-sig.gif
OptiBoard Administrator
heres a quicky, if you ever run out of brown dye and need to tint a pair of lenses a lite brown, put them in a hot cup of coffee. Also if you want to have a wide range of colors, you can go in any walmart or what have you and buy the regular dyes they sell for dyeing cloth and use those. Caution i might add that i have never tried any of this on poly.
Hello everyone,
"Jan, hot neutralizer won't hurt the AR, a swipe of acetone on a lab towel won't hurt it either. Al." Be very careful as to how long you leave the lenses in the hot neutralizer because if you leave it a little too long (some only require a few seconds) the AR will start to craze.
The Acetone works best.
Take care,
Darris C.
Hello everybody,
I have a few tips I have picked up along the way.
1. When you replace a screw and need to cut off the excess length, mount the screw and use a marker carefully just above the exit hing hole. Take the screw out and snip it just below the marker, and you will never have a jagged screw catching on hair, clothes, etc.
2. Try calling each patient (and I like to refer to people as patients rather than "customers") by their name. Also tell them your name when you first meet them, and again when you give them your card. This reinforces with them that you are going to take care of their needs, and are not just looking for their money.
3. As far as rimless, I like to take the plastic shipping straps that come on boxes and cut them up into small strips to mount. This usually cuts out any fraying from the ribbon, and it is sturdy enough not to split on the tight fits.
4. Also for strings that are just a little loose, take them and put them either over a frame warmer for a few seconds, or stick just the cord in the nuetralizer and watch the nylon shrink. After the string shrinks, you should have a better fit without having to restring the whole side.
5. Keep a notepad and write things down. Trying to remember about calling a doctor back for Mrs. Jones' RX is a lot easier if you are organized. This also works great for those patients that just want a tint on their old lenses. Write down the RX before dismounting the lenses, and you should not have any problem when you remount for the patient to pick up.
6. Don't be afraid to admit to patients when you make a mistake. Keep the communication lines open, and usually the patient will understand when your Triumph edger's motor goes out on you and you are not able to finish any job.
If you keep them abreast of what is going on with their glasses, and what you are doing for them.
7. I will end with this. Remember that even if your co-workers are not as professional as you think you are, maintain your ethic, and see how others fall into line.
Thank you and God Bless!
Adam D. Messer
For a perfect looking Fresnel placement use regular rubbing alcohol. The bubbles go away immediately and it looks great right away. It makes a nice quick bond.
If you have to use the dreaded filler in a frame where a lens has been glazed smaller then what it should have been, you know keeping the filler inside the rim is often tough. However if you put acetone on the filler it will stick into the groove of the frame and not move. Of course i realize none of us on the board here use it. Wonder how many rolls of 50h hilco sells a year?
Heres what i guess should be a no brainer, but when is the last time you sat down with your doctor and had a talk about the latest products that are available, and suggested to him or her about recommending them to patients. I made my doc a pair of polarized lenses that he had never had before. Now he is a believer and recommends them all the time, thus our polarized sunglass sales have increased tremendously. If you want to sell premium items, let the doc know its available. Most of them do not keep up with that aspect.
In India the climate in hot and humid. many frames even the good ones with metalic sides fade from inside after raecting with sweat.The customer comes back with complaint and rashes on his skin in some severe cases.
Does anyone know of some way in which I can coat the inside if the frame with a transparent lacquer or epoxy to make it last longer?
Asish, what is happening is corrsion due to the alloy metals most of the common frames are made of which is called Monel. It is an alloy containing nickel, copper and assorted other metals, thus when it corrodes the patient winds up with a dermatitis sometimes and the frames turn green. This is not only in your country ,but everywhere. Clear fingernail polish has been used, but it frequently has to be recoated. Thats why we try and sell as many titanium frames as possible. There maybe some other products that would work, some of the frame companies put a coating of Palladium 109 on the frames to retard rusting.
You could try using bike lacquer. It works very well, but smells exactly like cat pee, so be sure to spray it outside. :)
Harry, I was glad when the doc next door finally went to bifocals, so we could put him in Variluxs. Now he KNOWS they are more than cosmetic, then when he kept tellinbg folks they could "get by" without their reading add in their sunwear, we made him some Varilux polarized lenses; he no longer tells people that "they are worth the money". He tells them they should budget for them! sometimes we don't KNOW how much the pts will appreciate some feature, unless we experience it firsthand; in the meantime just know that we can't know everything.
Any time you take a full metal frame and bend on the end pieces either for panoscoptic or retroscoptic tilt, or to straighten one that has come in bent, always go back and tighten the eyewire screws, as with the threads being so fine , they will tend to pull out somewhat. thread is getting close to 100 posts, whose going to be the lucky person to be number 100?
Frames that corrode. Hilco has a coating that you ship the frame in and they coat it. Have never had a frame corrode after such treatment. So if you have a frame that the patient must have, and you know he is "corroder", send it in and charge the patient another 20 bucks.
As to messing with monofilament mounts, I find that another piece of monofilament (of sufficient length and pound strength) is much easier to insert, use and remove any other method.
Old Chip
This may be basic, but when restrining a rimless frame, cut the monafilment with a scissor, and cut it on an angle. It will go through the holes much easier. chappel pliers tend to flatten out the edge of the monafilament, therefore making it difficult to insert into the hole.
Just one more tip on grooved rimless;Polish the edges before you put the groove on to avoid having to clean out the groove after
kevin "learned the hard way"Howtopat
Monofilament cuts best at an angle with a single edge razor blade, as does adhesive washer strip. Adhesive washer strip is best used in short stips instead of one long piece (less wrinkles and ends that don't stick). Monofilament is best cut when fishing with fingernail clips.
Ole Chip
When changing screw on type nose pads, the vigor pl-5n pliers make a great little tool for grabbing the heads off the screw and pulling it out. Better then tweezers or worse your fingernails. Simply unscrew the screw and then grab the head with the pliers,and out comes the screw. Because of nose cheese it will usually stick to the plier. simply tap the plier on to the benchtop and the screw will fall out. I usually do this on top of a rag and then squirt the screw with some alcohol.