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Just wondering, what are your preferences for different lens tints for different activities?
I've always promoted Polarized lens for everything.
However, I recently read green tinted lenses are best for golfers b/c they enhance the contrast between the ball and the grass.
Does anyone else utilize different lens tints for different purposes?
Or different types of polarized lenses?
Besides the basic tint colors anything based on yellow will give you a high contrast vision. (comparable in the old black and white photography with the red filter)Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNeyecare
Golf :
Blue blocking colors = a combination of yellow and orange has the highest contrast.
Green has a good contrast and so does Vermilion which goes more into purple.
Driving
A dirty looking, yellowish brown is now considered the best color for driving in the European countries.
Pilots
Do need a uniform Grey/black color with an absorption curve that is as even as possible for good color differentiation of their instruments.
I used to use a Gray A polarized with a light purple blue tint for golfers. I was working to match the tint in the Callaway sunglasses with polarization. I used brown polarized for early morninng, shallow water or overcast fishing conditions.
I am a big polarized fan myself. You can get SV polarized lenses in just about every color under the rainbow. KBco and Specialty Lens have nice brochures giving the benefits of different tint colors. KBco also has a nice set of boxed lorgnettes that may help you demonstrate the benefits of the different shades better.
Task specific sun lenses helped me to dispense multiple pairs of sun glasses. The best lenses for skiing are probably not going to be the best lenses for golfing and neither of those glasses will probably look good at the business lunch with your "BOSS" suit. Present the task specific pairs first. Once they have selected all of the bells and whistles and they have to have them ask: "Now what is going to work for you the other 200 days of the year?"
KBco?? Do you have a link to their website?Quote:
Originally Posted by glassynotassy
That is not a bad, but expensive solution if you can get away with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNeyecare
However in todays economy where people are looking for more inexpensive ways of supplying efficient suglasses.
You could start thinking of tinting your own sunglasses. This is one of the most profitable add ons for a doctors office. that requires minimal investment, ($100 in equipment) and you start doing it.
Do yourdelf Tinting, UV treatment done in office are one of the most profitable items in an office .
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNeyecare
http://kbco.net/home.cfm?flashdetect=no&
The biggest problem with tints is that most folks who take that option the first time in an Rx sun switch to polarized because they don't like it when their sun lenses fade over time.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ryser
You got a pont........................Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo
However there are newer versions of dyes on the market that will take 3 to 4 times longer to fade, and when they do they fade in their original color and will not turn purple.
If it takes a few many years the patient will have to change lenses before this happens.
Furthermore a re-tint can be done in 2 minutes while the customer waits.
Now what reason have you got to sell polarized at many times the cost to people that are short on cash? Profits might be the only one I can think of.
Chris, what are the tints that you recommend that takes longer to fade?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ryser
Hi Dr.
I am a huge fan of Vermilion when it comes to golfing and using a white golf ball.
Do you wear glasses? Do you golf?
Suggestion:
If you wear glasses...
Have 2 e clips made for your glasses. One in Polarized Vermilion and one Polarized green so you can see the difference when golfing using a white ball. It will be a good visual experience to see the difference between the two.
If you do not wear glasses then take two frames and have e clips edge lenses into them. They have a program called Planoz where they edge their e clips lenses into full rim frames.
Its always good to "see" for yourself how things work....
Here is their number. 800-851-9913 go to ext 120, Melissa's phone and tell her that Michelle sent you and make sure to ask for a professional discount if you do decide to do this... just a suggestion doc...:cheers:
:p
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNeyecare
I had a patient ask me the other day for sunglasses that will help him see thru the water better when he fishes, and helps him see better when he hunts. He has a pair of grey polarized raybans already.
Not being much of an optical expert like you all, I told him he has the best lens for hunting and fishing already. However, I told him I'll do alittle more research to see if there is anything better.
Would you recommend anything else?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snitgirl
Snitgirl, thanks for the recommendation. I'll will look into Vermillion.
I think Opticians have done a great job educating the consumer about polarized lenses. I have watched many of my customers retire the tint tanks to the closet. Many of my customers told me the first thing they they did 10 years ago to start the day was to turn on the tanks. NOT ANY MORE!
Many customers now understand the importance of a good sun lens and polarized is by far the best option.
I think drill machines have taken up the space once used for tint tanks!
The patented Micro Tints are continously updated year 2000 dye technology compared to the standard lens dyes which were developed in the 1970s.Quote:
Originally Posted by DrNeyecare
They last longer, apply up to 100 times faster without emitting toxic fumes and bad smells. (60 seconds for CR39 + 4 minutes on Poly for dark shades)
You dont need a $700.00 tint tank.........your only investment in equipment is a modern household microwave oven. Check out at: http://optochemicals.com
Rep is right..............there is no need anymore, you just heat up the dye or dyes wanted and a pair of lenses is tinted in 60 seconds.Quote:
Originally Posted by optirep
Polarized lenses are good and useful, but not affordable for every pocket, specially in a degrading economy where the optician or optometrist is and will be loosing customers and get a reputation for being high priced, when pushing only the expensive items.
Quote:
For Eyecare Professionals Only Forum
There are cost and pricing discussions on above mentioned forum..........but you can only see and access it by making an Optiboard subscription, ad the ones who have not done so, are missing out on the most useful Optiboard forum.
This is just a start of recommended tint colors for various tasks. Adding yellow to any color will improve contrast.
Diane
Tints
lGray transmits colors evenly Less color change
Gray A or Gray 1
Useful as all purpose tint
lNot good for patients with emerging cataracts
Great used as a gradient tint
lGray C or Gray 3
Most widely used tint used for sunwear.
l2/3 of all patients prefer Gray C
Recommended for ocean or deep lake fishing
Ideal as an all-purpose sunglass tint
Tints
lBrown A or Brown 1
Can be dyed darker or gradient
Can be dyed to other colors
Good for overcast days
Good for golf or ski on overcast days
Good for patients with emerging cataracts
lBrown C or Brown 3
Increases contrast & depth perception
Good for shallow fishing
Good for reading the road for drivers
Flattering color on the face
Tints
lYellow
Used by hunters
Excellent for shooting glasses
Provides maximum contrast
Filters out blue light
Great for low light driving or any low light activity
Combine yellow with other colors to improve contrast
Tints
lOrange
Increases contrast
Blocks blue light
Best in overcast or cloudy situations
Best for Trap or Skeet Shooting
Also used for hunting, biking & skiing
Tints
lRed
Improves contrast
Good for fishing in early morning or late evening hours
Good for target shooting in bright sun
Good for shooting with orange, green or black targets
Also used for skiing or hunting
Tints
lViolet
Increases contrast and dampens certain backgrounds
Used by shooter in average or bright light
Fades out green backgrounds
Enhances orange, green or black clay targets
Used for skiing, snowmobiling
Tints
lBlue
Used in partly cloudy to sunny days
Used for tennis, golfing, snowmobiling
Good for shooting green targets against desert background
Lets in maximum amount of blue light
Tints
lGreen
Slight contrast improvement over Gray
Maintains good color balance
Used for tennis, driving & golf
Tints
lMelanin
Golden brown color
Selectively blocks violet & blue high energy visible light
Provides high contrast with true color perception for golf & low vision
Good for driving and when contrast is important
Correction..........................Orange by itself will NOT fully block blue light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diane
Blue blocking lens dyes do look orange when not tinted over by an other color making them look amber, brown and green.
A blue blocking lens dye is not a simple orange but a complex mix of different ingredients. Also a good Blue-Blocker will alsi absorb all UV rays and go up up to 525nm.
This will cut out all visible blue light, which is the color of our sky that is caused by the interplay of blue-light-scattering by air molecules, and white-light-scattering by water drops and dust.................
Blue wavelengths are generally scattered down toward the earth. This makes the sky appear blue wherever it is daytime (and the sun is high in the sky). At sunset, however, the opposite occurs.
Blue Blocking lenses are also of good use when boating, as you can see much clearer in haze or fog and you can easily recognize red and green buys against a setting sun.
Am I making an incorrect assumption that the micro tints will not work for a gradient? Almost all of our tints that are not polarized are gradients.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ryser
One really popular combo here is a grey 1 polarized lens with BPI Golf tinted over it.
Yes Sir, you do make an incorrect statement...........Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonLensmanWV
As the MicroTint Systems is so extremely fast you could never dip up and down so fast............so you tint the whole lens.
Then you do a negative gradient..................by dipping the lens in neutralizer and taking the color off instead of putting it on and all of it is still a lot faster than the conventional way.
This is awesome stuff guys. Keep the info coming! :cheers:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Ryser
I've had to do that in the past where a lens was tinted solid instead of gradient.Problem was there was never a neutralizer that would get the bottom clear enough, and since it took quite awhile, I used the stroker and the neutralizer would then run down the lens irregularly, creating sort of a sawtooth effect on the bottom. Too much trouble for a 5% grey gradient.
On a side note:
I got some of the Diamond Slick Coat and have been using it a fair amount. So far, very good. Other uses I've found:
Car windshields and headlights- so far, it's lasted twice as long as Rain-X and is still beading up. Might last longer if I also treated the wipers, and boy, do your side windows roll down easier!
Inside of the splash guard on the polisher. Doesn't bead the polish up quite as much as water, but the cover is way easier to clean!
Ditto the inside cover of the edger.
Perfect for the lenses in your blocker, and the next time I clean my Topcon LM-P5 lensometer, it's going on the front-surface mirrors inside and the ar coated optics.
Bathroom mirrors.
Monitor screens.
Display mirrors - fingerprints wipe right off.
DragonLensman, For the Micro Tint System we have come up with a new type remover, which is fully water and surfactant based.Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonLensmanWV
There are no solvents involved at all.
This product takes off dye from tinted lenses at a much faster rate is a much thinner solution and more powerful to dissolve pigments and will not result in a sawtooth.
effect It can be used on ALL lens materials without damaging any of them.
This tint remover can also be used for any dye-pigment removal of the conventional tinting systems.
In reference to your trials with Diamond Slick Coat from car to edger, I am anxious to hear some more on you test results.
There are so many products out on the market that can be used for many more uses than the ones they were designed for. Like lens hard coats had been used in other fields way long before they landed on lens surfaces.
I have a product that we made to refreshen optical surfaces that had grey areas and minor scratches. You put it on a lens (takes 2 minutes) the lens will look like new, the scratches are still there, nothing removes scratches. but there not visible anymore.
The same product applied on the fiber glass surface on my boat, prevented a spider from being able to climb up the 45 degree slope, it became that slippery.