You Know You've Been Around Too Long If . . .
You know you've been around too long if: :rolleyes:
-- you have an AO Red Dot screw extractor -- and you know what it is and when you got it!
-- you learned how to edge on an AO Trimatic edger.
-- you can score and hand-crimp a glass lens and get a ringer (and you know what a ringer is).
-- you used hair spray to adhere the extruded chucks to the lens.
-- you used suction cups for blocking and considered that an advanced innovation.
These ones are from Uncle Fester and Andrew.
Please add your own. ;)
You know you've been around too long if:
-- you did finishing lay out with a protractor, and thought a projectomarker was a Godsend.
-- you felt that the LEAP pad system was an innovation.
-- you'd rather drill the "semi-rimless" lenses, rather than figure out how to use that new-fangled groover.
-- you remember actual sand or salt in the frame warmer.
Never too long.................
Quote:
You know you've been around too long if:
Dead wrong..........................
If you guy's have been around that long it is NOT too long.........it is that we have followed the evolution from primitive to modern.
How about nutralizing lenses without a lensometer............with trial lenses? And then marking them for cut and grind.
Neutralize a lens The Old Way............................
Quote:
Originally Posted by omisliebling
How the heck does that work ??? EXPLAINATION please :confused:
Neutralizing a lens without a measuring device
Article by Chris Ryser (Dec 10,2004)
In the old times when there were none of our todays fancy analyzing instruments that look at a lens and printout the result, the optical industry had to use the manual way of neutralizing a lens to define its power, center and axis.
In Europe Opticians used lensometers already in 30s while in England they were Neutralizing lenses until the late 1050s.
Here is how to do it:
Look through a lens at a line
.move lens up and down or side ways.
If object line appears to go against movement it is a + lens.
If object line appears to go with movement it is lens
Look through a lens at a line
.rotate lens to right and left
If object line appears to move against or with rotation you have a plus and minus cylinder which are exactly at 90 degrees from each other.
Make marks at 90 degrees on a spherical lens and were the lines seen through the lens and the actual line meet (cross), and that is you optical center.
Make marks on the edge of a cylindrical lens while rotating the lens were the line seen through the lens and the actual line meet. Do the same aty 90 degrees and draw the cross line with a marker. You now have the optical center where the 2 lines cross and you have the position of the 2 cylinders (+ or -) reading.
Defining Power Of The Lens
The only tool needed is a set of trial lenses as used by the optometrist or the ophthalmologist in the refraction room.
Spherical lenses
As the lenses have been marked with their optical centers and cylinders we now can proceed to neutralize verify the power of the lens. We will assume as an example, that we have 2 spherical lenses of 2.00D one in + and in ,
Again look through the lens at the line and move it along the marked line and you will have a countermovement in case of a + line. Now you take a trial lens of 1.00, hold it onto the lens to be measured and you will see the countermovement to be much less. Take the next lens in .0.25 steps or as required until there is no more movement and you have arrived a plano (no more power = Neutral)
The -lens you have used to neutralize the power at plano is the reciprocal power of you plus lens. Result + 2.00.
The same procedure applies for the minus lens by using plus diopter trial lenses.3
Cylindrical lenses
Here again you will have to follow the same rule with the trial lenses. We will assume you are using a +2,00D sphere with a -2.00D cyl lens.to make it simple.
The already at 90 degrees marked lenses are rotated against our established black line. You now will have to neutralize both values as before with the spherical trial lenses for each of the 2 marked line crossing at 90 degrees. When the movement stops you are at plano and the lens used, again is its reciprocal value.
You will have used a 2.00D lens to neutralize the sphere and a + 2.00 lens the 2.00D cylinder for an RX of:
+2.00 D -2.00 cyl at 180 degrees
or plano + 2.00 cyl at 90 degrees
You can now progress to mark the lenses for cut and grind on the protractor and have made the job like they did in the old times.
Heating frames.........................
We used to heat the plastic Zyl frames over the flames of a bunsen burner yo get them soft before inserting the lenses.
The ols Zyl frame were made from celluiloid and highly flammable and caught fire once in a while and you had to blow out the flames very quickly. Usually there was just some surface damage which could be corrected by sanding, filing and polishing on the buffer.:D
Cataract lenses ...........................
Quote:
Originally Posted by hcjilson
Anyone remember making Temporary Cataract lenses. :)
Used to go to the hospital and fit the poor patients with their first cataract glasses. They had been operated and had to lie there without movement for a week got the temporaries when leaving hospital and then came back to the store a few weeks later for a permanent job made in small pantoscopic metal frames.
Didnt think I was that old...
...but I guess I am. Myo-disk in crown glass, when chem-treaters where a new thing. And along Chips line... remember when you could watch prime-time TV with out seeing butts/boobs or hearing "bad" words.
Hinges ..........................
When I was an apprentice one of my daily chores was to replace broken hinges on zyl frames. You would push out the pins and put in new rivets for the rplacement hinges.
My boss was a screw fanatic and would not let me use rivets. I had to make threads into the hinge holes and then insert the stainless screws and rivet them.. After that, file off the screw slots, sand them and polish them to a high gloss.
The bad part about it when the customer came back 6 month later with another broken hinge iy was a major job to remove these screws.
In these days we used to tell the customers if they were left or right handed, because the right handed poeple always broke the left hinges or vice versa.
phillips head screwdrivers
I remember when Phillips head screws were an innovation! My first phillips head screwdriver was given to me through my employer from Charmant. It had a wood handle and lasted for years! Well, come to think of it maybe there were'nt that many phillips head screws in those days (late 1970's)! To this day I consider them a mixed blessing. They may save you from jamming a flat blade into your finger but they seem to strip the head so much easier!