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    TIPS ON DISPENSING

    The purpose here is to start a thread, that if it works Steve will put in a permanent file. Steve informed me that starting a new forum was difficult with this software as once you do it you cant remove it.The purpose here is to pass along to others all the little tricks of the trade , that has anything to do with dispensing. There are quite a few old timers like myself, Al, Bob and a number of talented opticians of all ages on this board.In light of that i am going to start off with a relatively easy one dealing with the removal of a screw from a metal frame, that wont seem to come out. Quite often if you heat it slightly in a salt pan, then turn it slightly to the right , and then to the left the screw will come out. I am going to try and post at least one new tip a week, until i run out,and i challenge the rest of you to do the same and maybe we can make this a thread to remember

    #2
    This is a great idea and I hope it does become a regular spot.

    One thing I have seen some new people fail to do when adjusting a frame with glass lenses is not loosen the eyewire screw. If you turn the screw a half turn before adjusting the frame you will be less likely to chip the lenses. Basic information but like I said, I've seen some people fail to do this and end up in mess.

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      #3
      great idea

      i always find that if you cant figure something out... younger opticians ask older opticians for their suggestion... but the older opticians have to remember to ask the younger opticians also since they may have just learned something !new! in school

      both have great information to share with each other. as a student i had a customer who couldnt see out of his glasses that a 25 year optician had just made, my manager 13 year optician couldnt figure it out... why, he had been wearing r compensated segs for years and not flat tops(hard to notice). i shook my head (these segs are old), redid his glasses and bam they worked and he was happy

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        #4
        This one may not be as relevant today as it was a few years ago but ...

        If a tempered glass lens comes out of a heat treat or chem unit with a spot on it, often (not always) a pencil eraser will get it off.

        Now my search for an answer. What is anyone's method for removing a lens from a grooved rimless mount whithout chipping it when it is in there good and extra snug.

        [This message has been edited by Jo (edited 10-30-2000).]

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          #5
          Try grabbing the lens with turning pliers and turning it just enough to make a small gap. Then stick your choice of "rimless cord" in the gap and take em out.......

          In cases where the lens is REALLY tight, I have found that it can be easier to cut or break the string....yea I know restringing is no fun, but it beats remaking an expensive lens. (be careful doing this, you can do more harm than good if you use brute strength)

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            #6
            This is an old favorite for clouded poly lenses. You can soak them in hot Ivory dish liquid for 15-20 minutes and in most cases it will remove the fog.

            Also, when you run out of neutralizer the Ivory dish liquid will remove the tint.

            [This message has been edited by cah2020 (edited 10-30-2000).]
            ~Cindy

            "If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning." -Catherine Aird-

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              #7
              If you ever cut a lens too small in a metal frame (not that that ever happens with today's patternless edgers ;) ), you can sometimes "resize" the frame by grinding down the end of the eyewire at the joint. This works especially well if the frame has a front that hides the joint or if the joint is especially thick to begin with.

              Basically, the tricky part is maintaining the "V" at the end of the eyewire. I've used this little trick once or twice to save an expensive lens. It has its limits, of course, but it does work...

              Pete
              Pete Hanlin, ABOM
              Vice President Professional Services
              Essilor of America

              http://linkedin.com/in/pete-hanlin-72a3a74

              Comment


                #8
                Here's one I've wanted to try ever since we've posted, " Frame repairs will be performed at the customers risk ".

                Customer comes in for an adjustment on his old ( really old ) heavy, black frames, kinda like what B&L has ( Wayfarers )...The axis was off in one lens...So I take the frame and have them under the hot-air ( don't like using glass beads on plastic frames ) just enough so I can feel the lens turn slightly!....Wham, the frame splits at the bridge and all of sudden I've got two pieces...I told the customer to let me have them for about an hour...cruise the mall, come back in about hour. I drilled two holes at equal distance at the bridge, straightened a paper clip, made a U-hook pattern out of it and threaded the two holes, snipped the excess brushed on a little Lock-Tight and covered the shine with black magic marker!...The mans vision was what it should be; he said the frame felt sturdier than before. He thanked me for a job well done and off he went...I'll never do this again ever, especially with a plastic frame that felt like two thicknesses of a potatoe chip to begin with.

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                  #9
                  Well it looks like we are getting some response here, so heres my tip of the day. if you have a high plus lens, stay away from long narrow frames as they will tend to pop out of those frames the easiest since they are long across the top. one must undersatnd that one of the reasons for having trouble keeping lenses in a metal frame is the eyewire when tightned down has a natural tendency to straighten. you can prove this by taking a piece of string,putting it into an arc and then pulling on both ends. thats what your eyewire does and why there is more problem with plus lenses.

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                    #10
                    This one is pretty basic but an amazing number of "opticians" don't know this. If the temple is too long. Remove the temple tip, cut the desired amount off and replace the tip.

                    Next if cables are required, Hilco's cable tips can be applied to any frame metal or plastic as long as it has a metal core. These usually work better than factory cables as they can be custom made to length.

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                      #11
                      As to removing and installing chord mounted rimless glasses. I have found it far easier to insert some 20# test line between the lens and the line in the groove (a opposed to ribbon and fine metalic objects) and use this to pull the line from the groove..

                      Also in an effort to make lenses thin, some individuals go too far and do not leave enough thickness on each side of the groove. If it doesn't chip in your hands, it will in patient use. Just ate some over a year old last week for same.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Chip: The 20lb test is a good idea.

                        HenryB: I usually hope it is the string that goes before the lens. Actually, that was my reason for posting the question. I know some folks that can pop a tight lens in and out with the flick of a finger. Not me though; I always manage to break the string. Just like I alway manage to flake off the front of 3-piece mounted lenses when tightening. Rimless frames are not my friends.

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                          #13
                          Excellant thread! Glad to see it.

                          For nylor frames, I like using a dentist's "explorer". That's the stainless steel torture device with a sharpened hook on one or both ends. It's great for stringing and un-stringing the nylor. BUT you do need to be careful not to scratch the lens or stab yourself. Get them at most hardware or hobby stores or from your dentist.

                          Another little trick I use a lot when I dispense progressives to new wearers is to put a LEAP pad with the hole lined up with the center of the reading area. This clearly shows the patient exactly where the center of the reading area is and it serves as a good way to verify the accuracy of the Rx and the placement of the lens.

                          Hope someone finds these helpful.
                          Keep 'em coming.

                          Rich

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                            #14
                            Todays tip is a very basic one, but also the one i see most often that is wrong. When determining if a frame is straight, the first thing you have to look at is to see if it is straight across the front. If it is not, or if one side is bent in more then the other, your 4 point stance means nothing. Quite often you will see frames come in with one temple up and one down and almost invariably the patient will tell you they have one ear higher then the other. For the most part this is a crock. Scientifically it is a fact. In reality the difference in most cases is miniscule. Check the front of the frame and you will probably find its out of alignment.

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                              #15
                              If you are unsure about whether a patient will tolerate a particular seg height, take a piece of Scotch tape and place it along the seg line. This can be used to show either how much of the lens will be occluded during distance viewing or near viewing.

                              Pete
                              Pete Hanlin, ABOM
                              Vice President Professional Services
                              Essilor of America

                              http://linkedin.com/in/pete-hanlin-72a3a74

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