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TIPS ON DISPENSING

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    #91
    In India the climate in hot and humid. many frames even the good ones with metalic sides fade from inside after raecting with sweat.The customer comes back with complaint and rashes on his skin in some severe cases.
    Does anyone know of some way in which I can coat the inside if the frame with a transparent lacquer or epoxy to make it last longer?

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      #92
      Asish, what is happening is corrsion due to the alloy metals most of the common frames are made of which is called Monel. It is an alloy containing nickel, copper and assorted other metals, thus when it corrodes the patient winds up with a dermatitis sometimes and the frames turn green. This is not only in your country ,but everywhere. Clear fingernail polish has been used, but it frequently has to be recoated. Thats why we try and sell as many titanium frames as possible. There maybe some other products that would work, some of the frame companies put a coating of Palladium 109 on the frames to retard rusting.

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        #93
        You could try using bike lacquer. It works very well, but smells exactly like cat pee, so be sure to spray it outside. :)

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          #94
          Harry, I was glad when the doc next door finally went to bifocals, so we could put him in Variluxs. Now he KNOWS they are more than cosmetic, then when he kept tellinbg folks they could "get by" without their reading add in their sunwear, we made him some Varilux polarized lenses; he no longer tells people that "they are worth the money". He tells them they should budget for them! sometimes we don't KNOW how much the pts will appreciate some feature, unless we experience it firsthand; in the meantime just know that we can't know everything.

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            #95
            Any time you take a full metal frame and bend on the end pieces either for panoscoptic or retroscoptic tilt, or to straighten one that has come in bent, always go back and tighten the eyewire screws, as with the threads being so fine , they will tend to pull out somewhat. thread is getting close to 100 posts, whose going to be the lucky person to be number 100?

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              #96
              Frames that corrode. Hilco has a coating that you ship the frame in and they coat it. Have never had a frame corrode after such treatment. So if you have a frame that the patient must have, and you know he is "corroder", send it in and charge the patient another 20 bucks.

              As to messing with monofilament mounts, I find that another piece of monofilament (of sufficient length and pound strength) is much easier to insert, use and remove any other method.

              Old Chip

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                #97
                This may be basic, but when restrining a rimless frame, cut the monafilment with a scissor, and cut it on an angle. It will go through the holes much easier. chappel pliers tend to flatten out the edge of the monafilament, therefore making it difficult to insert into the hole.

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                  #98
                  Just one more tip on grooved rimless;Polish the edges before you put the groove on to avoid having to clean out the groove after
                  kevin "learned the hard way"Howtopat

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                    #99
                    Monofilament cuts best at an angle with a single edge razor blade, as does adhesive washer strip. Adhesive washer strip is best used in short stips instead of one long piece (less wrinkles and ends that don't stick). Monofilament is best cut when fishing with fingernail clips.

                    Ole Chip

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                      When changing screw on type nose pads, the vigor pl-5n pliers make a great little tool for grabbing the heads off the screw and pulling it out. Better then tweezers or worse your fingernails. Simply unscrew the screw and then grab the head with the pliers,and out comes the screw. Because of nose cheese it will usually stick to the plier. simply tap the plier on to the benchtop and the screw will fall out. I usually do this on top of a rag and then squirt the screw with some alcohol.

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                        Here is another tip for rimless mounting. When re-stringing a rimless frame it is very easy to get the string just a hair to big. I have found that the easiest way to correct that is with a lighter. Just apply a little heat to the string and it will shrink. You have to move quickly because the string will melt. But once you figure it out it saves a lot of trimming time and frustration.

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                          5 - 6 thin coats of Varathane protect metal frames beautifully.
                          Corrosion of metal temples can be prevented with clear 3M shrink tubing. It comes in several diameters and lengths and its cheap.
                          Remove the end piece, slide on the tubing, hit it with a hair dryer or lighter, it shrinks down tight and forever, replace the end piece. When you get good at it no one sees the tubing. Angry customers become angels when you do this . . . believe me.

                          You can get real creative with this stuff, too. It comes in tons of colors.

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                            I am looking for everyone's techniques for avoiding "stars" on the safety bevel of glass lenses.

                            I used to start out on a diamon stone and then clean up the bevel on a ceramic wheel. I no longer have a ceramic stone available so I am looking to our experienced OptiBoarders for tips and techniques.

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                              Jo, Get your ceramic stone back.

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                                I recently found out that when struggling with a dried-out, nasty figure 8 liner that refuses to budge : lubricate with good ol'WD 40 - it slid right on out - slicker than a whistle !

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