Clear Ring Around Polarized Lenses

[Lemonds64]

Hello All,

Sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong forum so correct me as you will.
I have a super basic question... What is the best solution to correct the Clear/White ring around polarized lenses?




Thanks in advance!

[optical24/7]

Black edge pen or indelible marker.

Welcome to OB!

[Lemonds64]

That is exactly what I told this Optician (I'm Customer Service but also Dispensing Optician) and she's not believing me so I started to question my self.
Thank you and Thank you! Long time lurker, first time caller

[DanLiv]

Yup that's the best fix for this existing problem. In the future a front edge bevel will hide the uncoated bevel from view.

[Uilleann]

Yeah, sloppy beveling. Not sure how so many otherwise qualified edgers think that look is ok. Gotta push that bevel forward. The trouble with pens or paint is that it wears off, usually quickly. Best to just do it right in the first place at the edger.

[lensmanmd]

Hello All,

Sorry if I'm posting this in the wrong forum so correct me as you will.
I have a super basic question... What is the best solution to correct the Clear/White ring around polarized lenses?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]15385[/ATTACH]


Thanks in advance!

Yep. Autobevel. Probably done by a novice on an auto edger, or, the lab did not program their LMS to automatically do a front bevel on an industrial edger. Occasionally, I have some that I need to "talk to" regarding stuff like this. They either get tired, of careless about polarized orders.

Our LMS doesn't have this capability, so it's up to my bench techs to pay attention. All of our edgers, by default, are set to 33% and follow frame curve to meet the majority of orders that we receive. Steps, polar, drill, etc., do need extra steps to insure proper edging. But, we are migrating to a better LMS soon, so things like this shouldn't be an issue moving forward.

That said, the transmitted order should always include bevel position requests, just in case.

[Kwill212]

Yeah, sloppy beveling. Not sure how so many otherwise qualified edgers think that look is ok. Gotta push that bevel forward. The trouble with pens or paint is that it wears off, usually quickly. Best to just do it right in the first place at the edger.

Yes and no. On this job, yeah it looks pretty bad. But if I'm putting a -8.00 2 base lens into a 4 or 6 base frame, I'm going to push some out the front. Especially at the temples to avoid splay. It's going to look better and fit better. Shoving the bevel forward works fine on mid to low powers, and is awful on higher powers or face-from. Just get the right edge pens and they don't come off, ever. https://www.mccrayoptical.com/pens-m...eco_pens-black these are the real deal. The other more available ones I have used are terrible and do fade and chip off quickly.

[PRECISIONLAB]

This appears to be the result of the edger being set to safety bevel both front and back. The polarized film is less than .5 mm from front carrier lens. Best to lightly hand safety bevel.

Job should have been redone not sent to you to determine if acceptable!

[Lemonds64]

Yup that's the best fix for this existing problem. In the future a front edge bevel will hide the uncoated bevel from view.

Thank you for responding. Front Edge Bevel is the way to go.

[Lemonds64]

This appears to be the result of the edger being set to safety bevel both front and back. The polarized film is less than .5 mm from front carrier lens. Best to lightly hand safety bevel.

Job should have been redone not sent to you to determine if acceptable!

Thank you for responding. I totally agree that it should never have come to me. I'm starting to question if our own Final Inspector needs glasses himself. :-)

[Lemonds64]

Yes and no. On this job, yeah it looks pretty bad. But if I'm putting a -8.00 2 base lens into a 4 or 6 base frame, I'm going to push some out the front. Especially at the temples to avoid splay. It's going to look better and fit better. Shoving the bevel forward works fine on mid to low powers, and is awful on higher powers or face-from. Just get the right edge pens and they don't come off, ever. https://www.mccrayoptical.com/pens-m...eco_pens-black these are the real deal. The other more available ones I have used are terrible and do fade and chip off quickly.

Thanks Kwill212 for responding. And thank you for the link to the Edging Pens!

[Lemonds64]

Yep. Autobevel. Probably done by a novice on an auto edger, or, the lab did not program their LMS to automatically do a front bevel on an industrial edger. Occasionally, I have some that I need to "talk to" regarding stuff like this. They either get tired, of careless about polarized orders.

Our LMS doesn't have this capability, so it's up to my bench techs to pay attention. All of our edgers, by default, are set to 33% and follow frame curve to meet the majority of orders that we receive. Steps, polar, drill, etc., do need extra steps to insure proper edging. But, we are migrating to a better LMS soon, so things like this shouldn't be an issue moving forward.

That said, the transmitted order should always include bevel position requests, just in case.

Hi lensmanmd, thanks for responding! And I think you are "winner winner, chicken dinner" on this example. I do work for a large and very busy lab that doesn't always take the time to look at the final product when they should. I appreciate your time.

[Lemonds64]

Yeah, sloppy beveling. Not sure how so many otherwise qualified edgers think that look is ok. Gotta push that bevel forward. The trouble with pens or paint is that it wears off, usually quickly. Best to just do it right in the first place at the edger.

Thanks Uilleann for responding. I think I've learned something today. :-)

[Lemonds64]

Yup that's the best fix for this existing problem. In the future a front edge bevel will hide the uncoated bevel from view.

Thank you DanLiv for the great advice! I appreciate your time.