Is there anything we can put on screws onin the tmeples to keep them from becoming loose. I have used clear nail polish but that will only last a short time.
Is there anything we can put on screws onin the tmeples to keep them from becoming loose. I have used clear nail polish but that will only last a short time.
Catherine,
"Safe-lok" screws from Hilco have threads treated with a substance that resists backing out.
Robert
3-M also makes a variety of products under the "lock tite" name for all types of screws, nuts, bolts and studs.
Catherine:
Do you know what peening is?
Chip
And if the vapor (or actual product) from either of those product gets on the untreated (no coating) edge of a polycarbonate lens - it will cause the lens to fracture. Be careful with acetone based products.
J. R. Smith
there are two better ways of doing this. Number one is use a slightly longer screw, cut it off leaving apx 1 to 1.5 mm. Put the head of the screw on the anvil and then take an optical hammer and peen it over lightly, file gently to make sure there are no rough edges.
....Number two, use a screw that is slightly longer and cut it off leaving apx 1 mm. Take a smooth file and file slightly so the surface that you just cut is smooth and flat. Next take your flaring tool and flare it out slightly. If you do not have a flaring tool i would suggest to buy one as they are invaluable. Probably about 35.00 for one from Vigor, grobet, western, hilco etc
The suggestions here are good. For the long time I've been in the business, I've used all of them. One thing I did a loooooooong time ago, if I had additional concerns was drip a little candle wax into the hole, and immediately lightly peen the screw. Also helped with any type of moisture in the hinge area. Don't know which one worked, but it did....
Diane
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
Which has always worked for me is to replace screws which have loosend with Hilco's "Tap and Lok" screw series. The screws have a nylon type coating which prevents the screw from loosening.
I prefer Hilco because it is a Massachusetts firm but I imaging other screw suppliers have something similar.
If you make the decision to peen over a screw (either eyewire or temple) please show some consideration to the person who may have to replace a temple or lens, and only hit it ONCE on the anvil!......or you will have occasion to find a series of self tapping screws for sure!:D :D
OK, I tried to read between the lines, but I haven't quite figured out what peening is. Explanation, anyone?
paw,
You can use peening pliers to spread the end of the screw so it won't back out or you can use a hammer and anvil to flatten the end a bit. Either way it makes the screw act like those drywall anchors that open up and grip behind drywall.
Harry,
If the frame should really be retired, I don't mind peening the screw over flush. If the frame is in good enough shape to be reused, I usually use a hammer and anvil but leave just enough of a gap between the end of the screw and the frame to get a slotting file in there and cut off the end.
Paw: Harry explained peening pretty well. You will notice that most screws have a little depression in the end fartherst from the head. This is to facillitate spreading out the screw end with a hammer, or a staking tool or similar devise. All screws on every frame should be so spread before origional dispensing, but we seldom have time and some of the screws are hard to access.
Chip
I solved this problem about a year ago when in frustration, after a Pt had brought back a metal frame with PGX lenses, the lenses had fallen and broken twice because of screw loosening, (which we replaced NC)
Quite simply I started using Teflon tape, the sort that plumbers use. Take a piece about one inch long, roll it into a long thin needle and thread it either through the lens barrel or the temple hinge, then replace the screw and tighten up. Cut off the excess on both sides and that screw will hold forever but will always be able to be removed.
Thanks everyone!
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