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Thread: Edging Trivex

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    Edging Trivex

    What edger is the best for edging Trivex. Back in the day Poly was the worst to edge, but I think Trivex has definately passed that up. It takes forever to edge. We do have the occasional lens that turns, but we have fixed some of them problems. I currently have an Optronics 7E and also a Satinelli le1000. We have tried the special wheels on the Santinelli but that did nothing to speed up the process. Any feedback would be appreciated.

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    Master OptiBoarder MakeOptics's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by valerier View Post
    What edger is the best for edging Trivex. Back in the day Poly was the worst to edge, but I think Trivex has definately passed that up. It takes forever to edge. We do have the occasional lens that turns, but we have fixed some of them problems. I currently have an Optronics 7E and also a Satinelli le1000. We have tried the special wheels on the Santinelli but that did nothing to speed up the process. Any feedback would be appreciated.
    From the horses mouth:

    Optronics 7E
    mms://media.ppg.com/Optical/optronics_7.wmv

    Santinelli ME 1000
    mms://media.ppg.com/Optical/Santinelli.wmv
    http://www.opticians.cc

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    I had an old 9000sx santinelli that I put on a trivex wheel that was really coarse and had holes drilled in it... It would rip thru a trivex job with a quickness. I never timed it but a pair ploished in under 8 min Im sure. Pretty sure it was about the same as a poly job as poly polishes a lil longer and had and extra step too...

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    With me, it's not so much the material, as it is the AR coating. We use an Optronics 7e...still having slippery AR problems. We can pretty much rip through any material...until you put the hydrophobic ARs on.

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    that 9000 didnt slip most of the time... if I had a tuff job like a -8.00 with a slippery AR I would lift up on the chuck shaft during ruff cut to take some pressure off of the lens/wheel. That edger was a lil to aggressive with the high minus, combine that with a full blank and lots of leverage, it could slip, once it started to get into the shape I let go.

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    We have that wheel on our Santinelli, but still dont notice any difference. I like Trivex on the string rimless especially because it does not chip out, just really slows down the finishing process. The only AR that I dont run on the Optronics is the stock AR because no matter how careful we are we get crazing in the center. Try using the Hi-index AR setting.. that is the slowest grinidng speed the Optronics has (what we were told anyways)

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    On my ME1200; we rough cut the uncut lenses as large as tracing permits, and use high-curve mode, soft engaged. Feed rate of lenses is much kinder.

    Recheck for slippage after roughing. Reblock if necessary

    B

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    Hi Valerier,
    One thing to keep in mind in is how the backside follower piece makes contact on the backside of the lens compared to the chuck and the edge block on the front side of the lens. Optronics makes several different pieces for the backside; what can happen is if the follower piece is too big or too small, the pressure put on the backside of the lens will either make the lens want to wrap around the follower if the follower is too small or make the front side of the lens where it is attached to the block push in and create an oilcan effect on the front side of the lens. Both of those situations can create crazing on lenses. Also a culprit of stock AR lenses crazing is the paddy deblocker, it pulls the center of the lens too much creating distortion throughout the lens.

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    I crib the lenses, then edge on my 220 volt Alta Xd. The process takes only a few minutes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod View Post
    With me, it's not so much the material, as it is the AR coating. We use an Optronics 7e...still having slippery AR problems. We can pretty much rip through any material...until you put the hydrophobic ARs on.
    How's your chuck pressure set for those slippery AR jobs? Is it tight enough? Also the lens feed rate into the cutter blade and lens rotation speed must be set slow as possible, especially for thick high minus. Lastly, must always use the non-slip pads - I use them on front curve only and no issues.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lab Insight View Post
    How's your chuck pressure set for those slippery AR jobs? Is it tight enough? Also the lens feed rate into the cutter blade and lens rotation speed must be set slow as possible, especially for thick high minus. Lastly, must always use the non-slip pads - I use them on front curve only and no issues.
    All of that has been looked at and tweaked. The 7e allows you to control all the variables. The problem is newer coatings create new problems.

    Apparently, this has become such a problem in the industry that edger manufacturer's are developing new machines that mill the lens down to near finished size without rotation on a wheel or blade. They're using a moving milling bit to carve out the excess blank and let it drop away from the lens in a few pieces...then they finish the last mm or two in the traditional way. Something's gotta be up if new edgers are in the offing.

    The lens makers want to make the lenses ever more slippery...the machinery is going to have to catch up.

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    OptiBoardaholic OptiBoard Gold Supporter Mick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod View Post
    With me, it's not so much the material, as it is the AR coating. We use an Optronics 7e...still having slippery AR problems. We can pretty much rip through any material...until you put the hydrophobic ARs on.
    We use the 7E and edge trivex without slippage. We use an IFP with Optisource Secure Edge. Let it rest at least 5 minutes before edging.

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