Tips for taking apart compression mounts ?

[ak47]

Can anyone fill me in on any tips for taking apart compression mounts without either taking 20 minutes to do so and without scratching the lenses?

Especially when a Silhouette "hingeless" temple has snapped, it is especially difficult to remove the mounting sleeve.

Are there any special tools that expediate the process?

Thank you!!

[morinput]

I use a good pair of cuticle snippers to cut the back of the bushing off. Replace them often as hitting the metal posts dulls them quickly

[Pogu]

Can anyone fill me in on any tips for taking apart compression mounts without either taking 20 minutes to do so and without scratching the lenses?

Especially when a Silhouette "hingeless" temple has snapped, it is especially difficult to remove the mounting sleeve.

Are there any special tools that expediate the process?

Thank you!!

Cut the back off, carefully, Use these to push the bushing/frame out.

20 minutes from starting to dismantle to finished assembly is not unreasonable, this is specialty stuff.

[vcom]

Use the MacGyver Method: A shoelace, some coconut milk, and a 9 volt battery.

*pause for laughter*

But seriously the snipping and pushing/pulling is pretty much the best way. In some situations I'll use a little bit of heat to soften the bushings, but you need to be careful not to damage the lenses.

[Outkast]

You can order a kit from Marchon that has a very nice little set of snips for the backside and I recommend Dynamic Labs "Rimless Bushing Pulling Pliers". Also Dynamic has a "Thin Bushing Cutting Plier" But I cant vouch for it as I haven't used it. But as stated above get maybe two pair of the Marchon snips as they dull easy if you even graze the metal post, the pulling pliers can be dangerous on the front of the lens, You just have to be very steady and careful.
As for reassembly I recommend covering your drill holes on the front of the lens with scotch tape before inserting the new bushing and poke a hole through with a small optical Phillips head and use a brand new razorblade to cut the new bushing, the scotch tape will act as a protective layer while you cut the bushing and remove the tape before compression. Dynamic also has a super nice "Rimless Compression Mount Plier" that works awesome. For Marchon Airlock2 I recommend their plastic compression plier. Good luck and take your time

[TLG]

I use Scotch tape, tearing off small 1/2" or so pieces and place the straight edge along the edge of the sleeve with an additional piece along the edges closest to the center of the lens. Silhouette supplies a cutting tool that works pretty well. The tape will protect the lens surface when using the pliers. If you're replacing a broken hingleless temple, repeat taping on the front of the lens along the remaining temple piece so you can grab that and pull it out too.

[obxeyeguy]

Can anyone fill me in on any tips for taking apart compression mounts without either taking 20 minutes to do so and without scratching the lenses?

Especially when a Silhouette "hingeless" temple has snapped, it is especially difficult to remove the mounting sleeve.

Are there any special tools that expediate the process?

Thank you!!

Since you already mentioned Silhouette, and pay there over priced amount for what they have, call them and over pay for 2 pair of pliers. One will cut the backs off, and also cut your new sleeves, and the other will pull the front hinge out, total time, about 60 seconds. If you want the same pliers cheaper, shop around.

[Jubilee]

I am with obxeyeguy. I have used many pliers in the past, but I prefer the ones from Silhouette. Cut clean and easy. Cut bushing on back side of lens, allowing you to then gently remove the chassis piece (Might need to "wiggle" it a bit.) To clean the tube of bushing off the post, usually a push pin will quickly flick it off. Use new bushing and trim using sharp plier, perpendicular to lens front (otherwise may scratch. Or use tape to protect lens front. I prefer the surface protectors for edging) I occasionally will use a push pin to "start" bushing holes to help ease prongs into the plastic. One of the nice things about the Silhouette pliers is they have different tips for the compression pliers to allow a firm hold on the chassis piece while pressing.

[mshimp]

Grobet/Vigor has a two prong punch that works very well also.

[mdeimler]

Many companies have the correct tools...I used my transitions points and ordered an entire kit from them.

[eryn]

Double sided scotch tape very closely around mounting. If done properly it will take 4 small pieces and create a square around the mount. After your finished pull it up slowly and the entire square can be reused on the other side.
For the new bushings after cliping them to size a push pin works well to open them back up.

[Flux3r]

we use a clipper to cut the bushing back off, then pull the rest off with the hinge. if the clipper gets dull we sharpen the burrs out with coarse fining pads, but i suppose you'd have to have a in-house surfacing lab to have those....

[PRECISIONLAB]

Having the correct tool is key. As mship mentioned specialized tools are available. Simply line up posts and punch out frame...no damage to the lens. Fast and easy

[King of the Lab]

Silhouette has a kit that they will distribute once or twice a year that include these handy German Steel Dykes that really do the job well. (Green Handle) Ask your rep for a kit if your an authorized vendor. If not I'm sure the above suggestion shall suffice.

[NCspecs]

Many companies have the correct tools...I used my transitions points and ordered an entire kit from them.

Yup, right tool for the right job. I'm not always a fan of gerry-rigging even though I've tightened many a nylon eyewire with a cigarette lighter. ;)