I am now trying to edge on a Briot Accura cx edger but it seems that the lens is turning when being cut. I may need it calibrated or it may be something else. If anyone is familiar with a Briot Accura cx edger please help me out. Thanks
I am now trying to edge on a Briot Accura cx edger but it seems that the lens is turning when being cut. I may need it calibrated or it may be something else. If anyone is familiar with a Briot Accura cx edger please help me out. Thanks
Welcome to optiboard! I'm not familiar with Briot's but some basic questions and suggestions;
Are all lenses coming out off axis and to the same degree? If so then you would need to tweek the calibration unless it's off a lot (too the same degree) and calibration doesn't fix it you may have a belt that slipped a few teeth.
Is it only on slick AR's or all lenses? Your chuck pressure may be too low or if it's on AR lenses you may need to use a rikki pad along with better blocking pads. Also slow the feed rate.
What does it do with a thin CR lens with no AR? These are the least likely to slip of all. If they are off axis too then it is definitely a calibration/belt slippage issue.
Also check your Blocker for axis issues.
Last edited by optical24/7; 11-09-2013 at 08:37 AM.
I used one many years ago. Use the largest chuck that will allow the cut. As optical/24 mentioned use Riki pads and the 'slippery road' setting for all AR jobs.
Perform a full calibration; lens feelers, tracer, etc.
If you are using a conventional/manual lensometer to dot the lens for layout, check and make sure your lensometer is properly calibrated.
It is off axis the same on all lenses and I tried on regular poly lenses with no AR. I will have to calibrate it. Never have done this will try by following instructions. I do use slippery road settings. I did buy special block pads for AR have not used yet, until I fix or calibrate the machine. I believe it has been over a year since this has been done, but it has not been used in that time. How often do we calibrate, daily, weekly?
Have you varified your blocker's axis? How many degrees off are the lenses?
If you're cutting Trivex or Thick poly, try cutting the lenses incrementally. I start at 15mm larger that the original size. Stop it just after the roughing cut. Then check and see if the lens has slipped. If it has, re-block and reduce the size down to 10-7.5mm larger than the original size. If it didn't slip, take it down to 5mm larger than original size. Check again, and if it has slipped, go down by half. If not let it finish cutting. Also look into your blocking pads, if they are too thick, that can cause some axis turning, and are you using ricki Pads? Best of luck!
Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt.
~ Mark Twain ~
dont skimp on pad quality either.
+1Originally Posted by Slim
I've been using the Cx for years, and had to calibrate the axis several years ago but not since. Just follow the manuals directions, keep notes, and you'll fix it. The cx is a great edger, just use the right size soft blocks, (must change chucks too) hydrophobic pads, and sometimes the non-slip clear protectors stickers are needed if you use an A/R lens that does not come coated with a non-slip coating. All the Crizal's A/R lenses do, and Nassaus' Crystal AR as well. I never need to use stickers with those.
If you have difficulty Brio has a free tech line that will walk you through it but you must have an acct #.
:cheers: Stop the merry go round, I'm ready to get off so someone else can have all the fun.
That machine is not a very good choice for Trivex or poly. Swarf gets caught in the gearing for the feeler arms. I had to buy some dental tools to free up the arms when they got stuck and figured out how to edge without that happening.
Getting the upgraded wheel helped that problem a lot.
I used the sharpening stones to clean the wheels, changed out the chuck pad, and recalibrated the axis on ours. When I have a high power poly, I usually turn off the water for a little bit during the roughing cycle. The wheels eats into the lens faster and easier, reducing lens turn. Been running 8 years like a champ. The optician in our other store doesn't like it, but I'll take it over a Santinelli any day of the week. Especially when parts and labor costs are much lower! Their Santinelli needed maintenance, and with labor fees and new motor installed (2 year old edger, mind you), it was $7500. Mine had an overhaul at almost 8 years, and with labor and feeler arm motor replacement (still worked, but was overdue for replacement by about 2 years), it was $1400.
Use a good quality pad, and with AR coatings I use a lighter to heat up the leap pad just before blocking. Makes a HUGE difference in getting the pad to stick better. Definitely do a monthly maintenance routine, including size and axis calibration. If you don't have the book for it, I can always copy and scan mine for you :)
"You can't think about it, you just gotta let your brain do the work....."
my dad
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