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Thread: Leap Tape Review to help ELIMINATE Slippage on your Santinelli Edger

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    OptiBoard Professional OptiBoard Silver Supporter theFinishingLab's Avatar
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    Question Leap Tape Review to help ELIMINATE Slippage on your Santinelli Edger

    Good Morning Again! I'm here to try and help your day by eliminating your A/R slippage!
    As an old Santinelli rep this was my #1 issue I had to fight! Its an issue everyone knows about. Back when I first started edging there were 2 kinds of leap tape 3M and Cheap blue tape! Now I think there are 3421 or there about.

    I have used this system for years and IT WORKS!!!! If you don't have slippage issues you've found what works for you. This really is for those super slippery A/R C&D categories.

    I also have daily, weekly and monthly maintenance sheets to help you maintain your edger to keep it running at the top of its game!! Feel free to email me at Info@theFinishingLab.com or visit our website http://www.theFinishingLab.com/Edger Services


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    great idea to use 2 blocks!
    We have used a non standard roughing wheel- that is now sold by Santinelli because of me- that cost a few hundred $ and eliminates all slippage and speeds up the roughing cycle mucho!
    My new ME1200 slipped on ft's trivex- ft is always the hardest- until the new roughing wheel was added. No more slippage on anything!

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    OptiBoard Professional OptiBoard Silver Supporter theFinishingLab's Avatar
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    I haven't had much experience with those aftermarket wheels. What I have seen in the past are no bueno. It is good there is one finally out there that is good. Hows the smoke with the Trivex on the new wheel? In that past thats been an issue with the sensors inside the machine.

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    The new roughing wheel creates almost no smoke when compared to a standard wheel. The wheel actually cuts all work better; there is no reason to not use the new wheel. It cuts at a lower temperature while actually cutting the lens vs burning if off. The holes in the wheel create a different swarf in poly and trivex that does not melt and become a ball of melted projectile.
    I would suggest the wheel to everyone and have been using them for at least 7 years.

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    IMHO, slippage is caused not by poor blocking pads, but by dull cutting tools...wheels or blades. Blades can be changed out cheaply and easily. Wheels???

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    OptiBoard Professional OptiBoard Silver Supporter theFinishingLab's Avatar
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    Completely incorrect You can buy a new machine and have slippage using the wrong pads. Edger wheels under normal circumstances won't dull till after 30,000 cut or sometime more. I can't answer about blades.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fjpod View Post
    IMHO, slippage is caused not by poor blocking pads, but by dull cutting tools...wheels or blades. Blades can be changed out cheaply and easily. Wheels???
    I agree that most pads should work if the edger is set up properly- it may not be possible to set it up properly- if you have a roughing wheel with holes in it! We just changed out our roughing wheel after 1,400 cuts and we should have done it a 1,250. We cut 95% trivex and it wears out the consumables and a roughing wheel is a wear item. The other wheels last many, many cuts but the hard working one needs to be changed out.

    The wheels take 5 minutes to change out and the cost is a few hundred $, not a fortune. The wheel cost less than leap pads per pair cut. All work comes out perfect, what is that worth per job?

    The old style roughing wheel has no place going forward and all machines improve when they are changed out to a new trivex style wheel. We cut a 1.67 yesterday that was almost 7mm thick nasal with 1.5mm temporally with one cut on the roughing wheel, a regular wheel on my machine might time out!

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    If a brand new edger cannot cut AR coated poly without slippage using any old leap pads, then the wheels are not appropriate for the material or... they are old.

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    Doh! braheem24's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig View Post
    The wheels take 5 minutes to change out and the cost is a few hundred $, not a fortune. The wheel cost less than leap pads per pair cut. All work comes out perfect, what is that worth per job?

    The old style roughing wheel has no place going forward and all machines improve when they are changed out to a new trivex style wheel. We cut a 1.67 yesterday that was almost 7mm thick nasal with 1.5mm temporally with one cut on the roughing wheel, a regular wheel on my machine might time out!
    Hi Craig, Which wheel did you use for your ME-1000?

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    Craig, What is the part/model number of this new roughing wheel, and is it available for older santinellis as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by braheem24 View Post
    Hi Craig, Which wheel did you use for your ME-1000?
    Same one I use now, but a different config for the new machine. They are available from Santinelli for older machines as well.

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    Master Jedi King of the Lab's Avatar
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    That you Ron Jordan? I remember when you taught me this on my LE9000.

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    Hello King of the Lab,

    Sorry to tell you this, but Ron Jordan passed away from cancer last year. All of us who knew him are sorry to find that out.

    Chuck

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    OptiBoard Professional OptiBoard Silver Supporter theFinishingLab's Avatar
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    Things to remember! Stop your slippage NOW!

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    Caution: anything that ensures your super hydrophobic lenses dont slip can potentially create a THARCLE on thin minus lenses if you are not careful how you due block them. We use generous amounts of All-off.

    FWIW

    B

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