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Thread: Finishing Lab Must-Haves

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    Finishing Lab Must-Haves

    Hello all!

    We are putting in a finishing lab and I'd like to know what we will need besides the requisite tracer/blocker/edger.

    If you had to outfit a new lab, what would be your must haves? Nothing is too big or too small to mention.

    Thanks as always for your help!
    -Johnny Cook, ABOC

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    Manuf. Lens Surface Treatments
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    Blue Jumper Finishing Lab Must-Haves ................................

    Instead of a tinting unit get a 1000W microwaveand tint CR39 lenses in 60 seconds to 70% absorption, as well as Poly + HighIndex in 4-8 minutes.

    Apply you own "Easy Clean" slick coats on AR coated lenses to prevent slipping and save on cost.

    Get the chemicals to fuse plastic frames back together and a soldering unit to
    repair frames.

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    OptiWizard Pogu's Avatar
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    A hand stone and hand buffer.
    A semi auto groover
    Frame forming pliers
    Depending on your volume an additional lensometer.
    A good stock lens supplier

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    Master OptiBoarder mdeimler's Avatar
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    Everything Pogu stated plus anti-slip pads to edge AR

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    Calipers and lens clock, experienced lab tech to save you from costly remakes.

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    A good ultrasonic cleaner to clean up face-cheesy frames.

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    Thanks for the good suggestions so far!

    If I have an edger that drills, grooves, etc, etc; do I still need a semi auto grooved and hand polisher? Hand Edger?

    Thanks again guys.
    -Johnny Cook, ABOC

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    Underemployed Genius Jacqui's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyocook View Post
    Thanks for the good suggestions so far!

    If I have an edger that drills, grooves, etc, etc; do I still need a semi auto grooved and hand polisher? Hand Edger?

    Thanks again guys.
    YES !!!

    You need:
    lensometer, (B&L Model 70 or similar)
    blocker,
    edger,
    hand edger (Coburn R5 or similar)
    manual groover
    manual edge polisher
    tint unit w/gradient (8 or 9 pans)
    mounting equipment and supplies (salt pan, pliers, files, screwdrivers, etc)

    And lastly: SOMEONE THAT KNOWS HOW TO RUN THE BLASTED THING !!!!!

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    OptiWizard Pogu's Avatar
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    You want to have manual equipment around because there are many scenarios that are better handled by a human. You always want to have the ability to refine what the machine produces. You may find the grooving and drilling cycles to be problematically long, or possibly just produce unsatisfactory results. Since you're taking the responsibility for the final product you need to have all the tools to provide professionally finished product. Simple jobs can be finished entirely by the edger, but any complications will require the human touch.
    Last edited by Pogu; 03-20-2013 at 02:44 PM. Reason: typos

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Java99's Avatar
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    More blocking pads than you think you need. More blocks, too. A big sink for dumping the tint unit, and a vent fan for the same tint unit. UV coat. Axis pliers, polish rouge, restringing supplies.

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    OptiWizard Pogu's Avatar
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    An alternative to an ultrasonic cleaner can be a cheapo sonic toothbrush from Wal-Mart (~$15) used in a bath of soap water.

    For restringing supplies buy a big spool of 15lb mono-filament fishing line and be on the look out for the thinner plasticy packing straps that come on bigger boxes. Also, fresh sharp razor blades.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Java99's Avatar
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    Thumbtacks. Grease pencils. More than one of your favorite plier so when someone from the front steals it you don't chase them down and yell in front of customers/patients.

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    Rising Star Huffam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pogu View Post
    A hand stone and hand buffer.
    A semi auto groover
    Frame forming pliers
    Depending on your volume an additional lensometer.
    A good stock lens supplier
    Semi Auto groover? sounds like that should be banned. it sounds scary and dangerous

    (sorry, bad joke)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffam View Post
    Semi Auto groover? sounds like that should be banned. it sounds scary and dangerous

    (sorry, bad joke)
    the fully automatic version is probably already banned!

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    Lots of patience! There are some great lists above. Hand edger is my most important addition to the edger that does it all, sometimes you have to touch it up a bit. The polisher is also a great addition, as sometimes you want a little bit more for your finished product, than the edger can give you.

    Good luck!

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    OptiWizard Pogu's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Huffam View Post
    Semi Auto groover? sounds like that should be banned. it sounds scary and dangerous

    (sorry, bad joke)
    Its OK it only does one lens at a time

    I call them that ever since I saw a real manual groover.

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    Master OptiBoarder CCGREEN's Avatar
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    Mr johnnocook

    With all due respect saying this. If you come on Optiboard asking what you need for a finishing lab then it is painstakingly obvious to me that the best advise given you in this thread is to hire someone capable of PREVENTING breakage. Someone with GOOD finish lab experience. A poor finish lab person can break the bank really quick! A good one can prevent you a lot of headache and help you make lots of money.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pogu View Post
    An alternative to an ultrasonic cleaner can be a cheapo sonic toothbrush from Wal-Mart (~$15) used in a bath of soap water.

    For restringing supplies buy a big spool of 15lb mono-filament fishing line and be on the look out for the thinner plasticy packing straps that come on bigger boxes. Also, fresh sharp razor blades.
    I have 15 lb, 20 lb, 30 lb, and 50 lb spools -- one size does not fit all. The toothbrush is a good tip. I use a manual toothbrush and a dental pick (the type hygienists use) to clean frames -- much better than getting all that yucky stuff falling into the super-expensive tracer.

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    Dremel multitool with lots of tiny drill bits, sanding drums, diamond wheels, maybe flexshaft for ease of use.

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    Johnny- it was nice meeting you at VEE. I agree with the above posts. I didn't notice a frame warmer (prefer air over the bead tray). Also, a rubber cushion mat for your lab person to stand on. It is not easy being on your feet all day and this makes a big difference. A sink is another must. Make sure you have adequate ventilation. You may be cutting a lot of trivex and high index.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CCGREEN View Post
    Mr johnnocook

    With all due respect saying this. If you come on Optiboard asking what you need for a finishing lab then it is painstakingly obvious to me that the best advise given you in this thread is to hire someone capable of PREVENTING breakage. Someone with GOOD finish lab experience. A poor finish lab person can break the bank really quick! A good one can prevent you a lot of headache and help you make lots of money.

    CCGREEN,

    You're right in gathering I'm not a lab expert. I have edged on a regular basis before but it has been a few years, and even then I wasn't in the mind of purchasing the equipment to outfit the lab. I am certified too, so I have a basic understanding of what the final products should be.

    I feel that I am a fast learner and I am willing to make a few (very few) honest mistakes to learn along the way. I also have a few lab expert friends who are willing to help give guidance and advice along the way. I'm also very grateful for forums such as this one where I can grow and learn by asking questions. I'm truly confident that with the right equipment, dedication, and practice I can become a good lab technician.

    Again, I thank all of you for your advice and help along this journey!
    Last edited by johnnyocook; 03-20-2013 at 11:22 PM.
    -Johnny Cook, ABOC

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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Zewe View Post
    Johnny- it was nice meeting you at VEE. I agree with the above posts. I didn't notice a frame warmer (prefer air over the bead tray). Also, a rubber cushion mat for your lab person to stand on. It is not easy being on your feet all day and this makes a big difference. A sink is another must. Make sure you have adequate ventilation. You may be cutting a lot of trivex and high index.
    Joe! So nice to meet you too! I already have the frame warmer (air, not sand) checked off! Thanks for the advice!
    -Johnny Cook, ABOC

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    OptiBoard Professional nicksims's Avatar
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    Johnny,
    If you have some influence over the design of the lab, walk through the space and figure out your flow. Where should the edger be placed in relation to the the sink and water lines- not always easy to move once built out. How will jobs/eyewear/trays etc. enter the edging area and eventually leave? Location for tools and supplies? Where will the groover/polisher/tint unit be located? Draw it out in some way so you can plan the best movement of stuff and people so you all aren't on top of each other. That just stinks!
    Also, shelves and storage. If you think you have enough, add more (of course money is no object! ). Same goes for counter space. You can never too much.

    Re: your question about the edger and still needing "equipment". Yes. For example, I love my edger- accurate, consistent... but when I cut a high base curve, it won't polish. So I still need the polisher and the hand edger to take off the sharp edges. The groover I rarely use any more (an old AG-5, but still good). But every once and a while I like to have it to accommodate a customer. Again, rare, but a small tool to keep (in the extra storage space!)

    I think somebody here mentioned venting? Super important to vent out the high index stank. Especially if there is some open flow between your edging area and the retail/general public space.

    Some little things... cans of compressed air always come in handy, tons of band-aids, sharpies, and the pens by Staedtler (sp?) for marking slick A/R coated lenses. UV lamp for Transition lenses? For organizing small pieces, parts, pads, screws, etc. I like the plastic units that hold tons of small clear drawers. Not sure what to call them, but go to the hardware store- mount them on the wall or counter. They are a few inches deep, about 2 ft tall and 1-2 ft wide. Get a label maker too! And the green polarizing light box thingy (I clearly don't remember what it is called) to identify and mark progressive markings. Speaking of progressives, among all the catalogs, etc. get the annual prog identifier catalog. And teach everybody how to use it!

    Small fridge? Budget for snacks? I'm always hungry! And perhaps a small section set aside for torturing those who come in and "borrow" tools only to never return them.

    Good luck!

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    A good radio. One with an auxiliary input

  25. #25
    OptiWizard Pogu's Avatar
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    Great suggestions above, staedtler pens are great. Also sharpie pens will mark on non-hydrophobic lenses and can be wiped off without solvent or soap, great for markup notations on uncut lenses and easy to remove fitting marks on demo lenses.

    When planning lab flow also allow a place for trays to linger. Sometimes you may have to wait for a insurance authorization or payment, etc.

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