Adjusting Ray-Ban Clubmasters

[Browman]

Anyone have any experience fitting/adjusting patients for Ray-Ban Clubmasters or Clubmaster IIs? We have a patient who wants a pair but who has a smallish noe and is used to smaller style nosepads and is concerned with how he'll adapt to the larger, non-replaceable variety on the Clubmasters. I've only ever dealt with interchangable nosepads and have always been able to replace them for pts who had issues with the size.

[Barry Santini]

Those pads come varying sizes from Hilco

[Browman]

How do they come off? I've only ever worked with screws and snaps before.

ETA: We're expecting a shipment of Ray-Bans sometime in October, with the pt planning on a November purchase. As a result, the doc doesn't want to jump the gun by ordering a single frame, and so I haven't got a pair to actually play around with; I've only stopped by a Sunglass hut as a "consumer" to take a look at a pair myself in order to give advice; and obviously I can't toy with adjustments or fiddling with nosepads (unless I wanted to get booted out).

[TLG]

How do they come off? I've only ever worked with screws and snaps before.

ETA: We're expecting a shipment of Ray-Bans sometime in October, with the pt planning on a November purchase. As a result, the doc doesn't want to jump the gun by ordering a single frame, and so I haven't got a pair to actually play around with; I've only stopped by a Sunglass hut as a "consumer" to take a look at a pair myself in order to give advice; and obviously I can't toy with adjustments or fiddling with nosepads (unless I wanted to get booted out).

Slip a small screwdriver blade underneath where the wires fold over and twist it to loosen (may be easier to start with just the top wire). You should then be able to open them up enough to slide off. To remount, place the pad onto the arm, use a plier to first squeeze the pad's wires tight around the arm and then fold the wires- one over the other - and clamp tightly with the pliers. Many of us cut our teeth on these; don't be intimidated, it will be fairly simple once you have them in hand...and we'll still be here for you!

[chip anderson]

When the frame gets old whatever you do, don't unscrew the screws that hold the chssis to the front. The plastic shrinks on all such frames over time and you will never be able to line up the screws with the holes.

Chip

[NCspecs]

Slip a small screwdriver blade underneath where the wires fold over and twist it to loosen (may be easier to start with just the top wire). You should then be able to open them up enough to slide off. To remount, place the pad onto the arm, use a plier to first squeeze the pad's wires tight around the arm and then fold the wires- one over the other - and clamp tightly with the pliers. Many of us cut our teeth on these; don't be intimidated, it will be fairly simple once you have them in hand...and we'll still be here for you!

Thank you for this post- we don't carry Ray Bans (No Lux for us) but I will glaze them. Just today I ordered a set of lenses for a Clubmaster so I'm glad to have this little nugget of info if ever I should need it. :)

[CCGREEN]

WOW! You mean somebody out there is still making a frame with this type of nose pad. How frigging antiquated!
Or did I miss the point compleatly and you just have a old frame?

[EyeManFla]

I had an old B&L nose pad plyer for decades.........sold it yeard ago as an antique....

[EyeManFla]

Pretty much...

Slip a small screwdriver blade underneath where the wires fold over and twist it to loosen (may be easier to start with just the top wire). You should then be able to open them up enough to slide off. To remount, place the pad onto the arm, use a plier to first squeeze the pad's wires tight around the arm and then fold the wires- one over the other - and clamp tightly with the pliers. Many of us cut our teeth on these; don't be intimidated, it will be fairly simple once you have them in hand...and we'll still be here for you!

[Barry Santini]

Slip a small screwdriver blade underneath where the wires fold over and twist it to loosen (may be easier to start with just the top wire). You should then be able to open them up enough to slide off. To remount, place the pad onto the arm, use a plier to first squeeze the pad's wires tight around the arm and then fold the wires- one over the other - and clamp tightly with the pliers. Many of us cut our teeth on these; don't be intimidated, it will be fairly simple once you have them in hand...and we'll still be here for you!

Actually, The one adjustment I would make to TLG's excellent advice is to NOT "clamp tightly." Done optimally, these pads should just rock a little bit.

B

[TLG]

Actually, The one adjustment I would make to TLG's excellent advice is to NOT "clamp tightly." Done optimally, these pads should just rock a little bit.

B

Yes, agreed - great point!

[TLG]

WOW! You mean somebody out there is still making a frame with this type of nose pad. How frigging antiquated!
Or did I miss the point compleatly and you just have a old frame?

Oh, it gets better - they also still use the crazy squiggly pad arm! Nothing better for vertical adjustment, but a real bear to get R/L symmetry in general.

[Judy Canty]

Actually, The one adjustment I would make to TLG's excellent advice is to NOT "clamp tightly." Done optimally, these pads should just rock a little bit.

B

Known as B&L Rocking Pads, if memory serves.

[chip anderson]

Oddly enough B&L didn't put too much time in engineering the nose pads and one tang must be started down first to fold over the other. Otherwise they will meet before they close over the nosepad strut.

Chip

[harry a saake]

Actually these pads were originally known as Grayton rocking pads, and they were flesh colored. Made by the grayton rocker pad co. of rochester n.y., to what barry alluded to in his post, yes all pads should be allowed to rock so when the nose moves so does the pad. As far as getting these pads off a small screwdriver or an awl will lift them enough where you can grab the metal piece with a snipe nose plier. About putting them back on, all you need to do is take your nose pad plier that you use to adjust screw in type pads, and turn it around and use the part that normally goes around the pad arm, and slowly squeeze the two metal tabs until they are flat, it takes a few tries, but it works

[jefe]

Those pads come varying sizes from Hilco

Apparently they don't.

I tried ordering some from Hilco today...then Vigor (they had only 17 mm Silcone/Polycarbonate ones -- no good)...then Stormin' Norman's -- no luck. Does anyone know where I can get these pads (without setting up an account w/Lux)?

[Fezz]

Jefe,

I may have some in my warehouse!

I'll double check tonight

[Fezz]

Jefe,

I want to be sure of what you need. I have the 17mm vinyl ones at work and I think I have several sizes in the warehouse.

[jefe]

Yes!

[Barry Santini]

Also check McCRay Optical. They import frame parts both from China, and from Germany (B&S)

B

[Fezz]

I've never used this joint, but here is another source:

http://stores.nosepadking.com/-strse...Categories.bok

Amcon lists 17mm "B&L" crimp on:
part#: NP-0202
1-800-255-6161

I have used Winco for many things over the years:
Split/Spread 15 (part # 05/245) & 17 (05/247) Acetate
1-800-345-1567

Another source!
http://optometristattic.com/Nose_pads.htm

[Fezz]

Jefe,

I rummaged through the warehouse. All I could find were 17mm acetate. If you want a few packs, send me a pm with your addy and I'll get them right out!