How do I get Figure 8 wire to go around a sharp corner?

**VHB** · 08-17-2011, 10:41 AM

Ack! The lab damaged the Figure 8 wire in an Alain Mikli frame. I've got replacement wire, but can't get it to turn the corner. There's got to be a trick!

**Diopterman** · 08-17-2011, 10:45 AM

You sure are having one helluva time with that lab of yours!

Anyway.........................on to your problem!

I sometimes will put a small notch in the line at an angle with a razor blade. I then put the razor in that notch and sort of drag the liner while keeping slight downward pressure with my other hand in the corner to keep the liner from pulling out. I have heard of folks using mineral oil to "ease" thing along!

**pseudonym** · 08-17-2011, 10:46 AM

A drop of oil and a small file to slide the liner with have always worked for me. Also you can put two pieces in side by side if necessary.

**VHB** · 08-17-2011, 10:49 AM

Different lab, but I have problems with all of them. I've tried the notching, but I'll try the oil and then the notching again.

**kcount** · 08-17-2011, 11:00 AM

you could always get the tool that puts the figure 8 wire in.

http://www.labtalkonline.com/Product...sp?ProdID=2767

**VHB** · 08-17-2011, 11:23 AM

I'll certainly order it, but the customer wants her glasses today!

**chip anderson** · 08-17-2011, 11:27 AM

You could tell you lab: "It's your problem, you broke it, fix it. Or you could cut the fix 8 liner at an angle, start the pointed side first and slowly thread it in. Often it prefers to be pulled (razor blade inserted through top the edge near the front and pull, then trim after going all the way through. Doesn't hurt to clean the groove before starting.

Chip

**kcount** · 08-17-2011, 11:43 AM

try snapping it in with some needle nose pliers along the top. Then insert a separate piece below the sharp turn to hold the sides. better yet leave it with just the top liner in and call it a day.

**DragonLensmanWV** · 08-17-2011, 11:57 AM

If you have a pair of old Numont pliers, they work pretty well to snap it in.

**VHB** · 08-17-2011, 12:23 PM

Okay, it's in. Yards of figure i wire later. I used a combination of everyone's suggestions. Thanks for your help.

**uncut** · 08-17-2011, 07:36 PM

Glad ya got it finally!. Next time, with a sharp blade, cut a few relief cuts into the lens side(1/2) of the t-bar before slithering it in. Push, pull, or drag it! Sometimes a slight amount of warm air heat helps to flex it along, too!

**rdcoach5** · 08-18-2011, 07:24 AM

Originally Posted by kcount

you could always get the tool that puts the figure 8 wire in.

http://www.labtalkonline.com/Product...sp?ProdID=2767

Does that work well even on corroded eyewire?

**VHB** · 08-18-2011, 08:50 AM

The problem was that the angles were so sharp on both the nasal and temporal sides. I wound up using vaseline and squeezing a piece of the nylon into the top, then slid pieces up the sides. Not perfect, but okay. Then I had trouble reassembling the metal chassis into the zyl superstructure. Alain Mikli's frames are gorgeous, but a @#$%^&* to work on! The whole thing took two and a half hours since I had to stop and wait on customers. It's times like these that I wish I didn't work alone!

**braheem24** · 08-18-2011, 09:15 AM

I wouldn't say you were working alone on this one ;)

**VHB** · 08-18-2011, 09:29 AM

True, true! The "hive mind" is a great problem solver!

**chip anderson** · 08-18-2011, 09:16 PM

I forgot the most obvious answer of all. Heat the stuff, it'll get a lot more flexible and slide right round dem corners.

Chip

**VHB** · 08-19-2011, 10:31 AM

I did try heating the stuff, Chip, but it didn't help. I don't have a protractor handy, but I'd guess the angles of the bends were about 45 degrees. That's a lot of bending.