I agree on the isopropo. It seems to work well on markings when the lens is warm. When the lens is cold, you have to scrub a little harder and you can risk scratching the lens if you scrub it too long. We use a hot plate with water that we heat up to about 42 Celcius. We just dip it in for a second and then a quick wipe with the isopropo usually does the job.Originally Posted by bhess25
So, I'm sitting here inspecting glass lenses, and something occured to me about this thread.
For everyone talking about removing progresive markings on A/R lenses, don't the markings have to be removed BEFORE the A/R is applied? I'm kind of bothered by lenses being A/R'ed with the markings still on them.....
There are rules. Knowing those are easy. There are exceptions to the rules. Knowing those are easy. Knowing when to use them is slightly less easy. There are exceptions to the exceptions. Knowing those is a little more tricky, and know when to use those is even more so. Our industry is FULL of all of the above.
don't let anything occur to you anymore. The original markings are removed before AR is applied. The markings are then applied again after the AR process has been completed.
equal opportunity offender!!
That seems like a waste of time, and, from reading this thread, greatly increases the potential to damage the lenses.
There are rules. Knowing those are easy. There are exceptions to the rules. Knowing those are easy. Knowing when to use them is slightly less easy. There are exceptions to the exceptions. Knowing those is a little more tricky, and know when to use those is even more so. Our industry is FULL of all of the above.
I use All-off by Optisource. Works better that anything else.
What do they use to apply those markings after coating anyways? Is it like a business stamp? How do they line it up and why don't they just use something that can be wiped off with a little soapy water? It's not like I can't dot them up for verification by myself.
it's almost like the same paint they use on the factory lenses, yellow progressive markings. We had a machine that would line up the dots and stamp it, the unit came loaded with 30 different style markings and you could always add more. robotic doohicky that selected the marking stamp to match the lens.
equal opportunity offender!!
You wouldn't happen to have more info on the machine, like manufaturer and model number? I'm still not sure I would use it on A/R lenses, but I definitely think it could be useful for lenses that have lost their marking during surfacing or tinting.
There are rules. Knowing those are easy. There are exceptions to the rules. Knowing those are easy. Knowing when to use them is slightly less easy. There are exceptions to the exceptions. Knowing those is a little more tricky, and know when to use those is even more so. Our industry is FULL of all of the above.
i cant remember for the life of me...I have friend that still works there...ill ask him next time we go tip a few back!!
equal opportunity offender!!
I remember reading lemon extract on a q tip works well....smells good too!
WE SEE THINGS NOT AS THEY ARE, BUT AS WE ARE..... Anais Nin
Methanol works great for most progressive markings, we have used it for over 15 years. You should always try to avoid wiping any chemicals on the frame when cleaning, although this can lead to very dry fingers, so a glove is a good suggestion to protect your hands.
Acetone will obliterate any markings with ease, but is also much more corrosive to many frame materials so it should be handled with extreme care around expensive (or inexpensive) plastic frames. Furthermore, AVOID USING ACETONE WITH POLYCARBONATE LENSES AT ALL COSTS. Even with polished edges, the acetone can still seep in and crack a lens, or destroy the coating from the edges.
If polycarbonate were Superman, acetone would undoubtedly be kryptonite!
Last edited by JasonArdanaz; 05-24-2011 at 02:11 PM.
+1
equal opportunity offender!!
we got some of chris's stuff which was very good and also a lens ink removing pen from a UK supplier. It is VERY good indeed!
To sum it all up.......................................
To sum it all up..............there is a thousand ways to clean off the marking.
The only negative point is that 998 ways can damage you liver.....your brain and kidneys...........can affect your vision or give you skin cancer.
But you can always purchase the "All OFF" for $ 49.00 per Liter
or
the "Markaway" for $ 29.00 per Liter
Chris;
Why do you find it necessary to hype your business on your posts?
Administrator.....why do you allow this?
Regards,
Golfnorth
Heard that before............................
Probably because I just hyped 998 products and what they do plus the 2 that also have been talked of by name.
One of a thousand that I hyped is my product and I did not even say so, but you did.
I have for you the solution: After looking and testing the best item to remove ANY MARKINGS on progressive lenses or any other type of marks made by the lab is:
PAINT MAKER REMOVE, DECO COLOR REMOVER, CHISEL TIP, ITEM No. DCR300,
MADE BY UCHIDA OF AMERICA, CORP, 3635 Del Amo Blvd, Torrence, Ca., web page www.uchida.com
It works like a pen (chisel tip) and does not harm any material, you can use it on CR39, Poly, High Index, Trivex and glass.
It comes in a box of 12 pcs. I have used this item for the past three years without any problem.....
Hope this helps.....
Moises
I find some markings more difficult than others. Sure do miss Billy Mays.
we use isopropyl alcohol to clean the markins and its pretty good.
Inland Ink Remover:
Used to use alcohol on a warm lens but this stuff is great.
Of course a lot of solvents will do the trick..................but also can they start a destruction cycle of the lens materials or their coatings that will show some time down the road. You should not be too cheap to purchase a for this purpose directed commercial product whoever makes or sells it.
The progressive mark cleaning solutions, or some filled in a marker type , all work in my oppinion; tried almost all of them mentioned above, some work faster , some smells strong, I don't have to name them one by one, but over all the marker type is handier and you have less chance to damage some plastic frame.
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