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Thread: silhouette drill mounts

  1. #1
    Seeker of perpetual knowledge specs4you's Avatar
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    silhouette drill mounts

    I have a rule of thumb with how high minus I think Silhouette drills should be made,knowing the other meas. factors.

    Curious ....how do you feel about how high you are willing to go?
    I think they look horrible thick.......and there is the thickness of edges.

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    Quote Originally Posted by specs4you View Post
    I have a rule of thumb with how high minus I think Silhouette drills should be made,knowing the other meas. factors.

    Curious ....how do you feel about how high you are willing to go?
    I think they look horrible thick.......and there is the thickness of edges.
    My limit is 20 diopters. Why are rimless different from thin metals?

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    Seeker of perpetual knowledge specs4you's Avatar
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    Just cosmetic, and the fact that the angle on the mounts gets dicey and many times
    wear lousy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by finefocus View Post
    My limit is 20 diopters. Why are rimless different from thin metals?
    Wow really 20. Now are you talking 20 diopters in a drill mount or a groove (rimless). I have worked in several places that refer to them different ways.

    I thought my -5.25 x -2.50 looked bad as a drill mount

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    With all the possibilities of bridge sizes, temple styles and lengths, lens shapes, ability to custom drill the holes vertically and horizontally.......These rimlesses are a fantastic way to show your ability and talent in customizing a much more cosmetically pleasant pair of eyewear than ever.

    If you choose the lens material carefully, and use the best shape for the Rx.....up to -20 can be better looking, and optically more comfortable, than some other full rim choices.

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    I like the high minus ones where you don't have to trim the bushings!
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    What's up? drk's Avatar
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    I've always felt under 5mm looks best.

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    I've done as high as a +/- 5 but with a high index lens. Material is important to a point; I always choose the lens shape for the pt based on where the optical center will sit as well. There aren't too many people who fight me on this decision. My only caveat; Silhouette clips don't fit well on a high plus unfortunately.
    "Strictly speaking, there are no enlightened beings; only enlightened activity." -Shunryu Suzuki

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    I refuse to do business with this "PARTNER"!

    I refer all Sillyhouette inquiries to Barry Santini and his fine establishment!

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    I chose 20 diopters as a deliberate overstatement; there is no theoretical limit. A thick edge isn't covered by a rimlon, and covered very little by a conventional metal. Unless you go to a zyl, or a thick endpiece, the 3-piece costs you little in cosmesis. Also, rimless doesn't have the ring effect you get from a bevel, and also from a rimlon groove. For some tastes, the frame you need to cover the edge is more obtrusive than the edge itself.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Here's a minus 15 in drill mount. With facets!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SDC10111.jpg   SDC10109.jpg  
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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    I bow to you, Master Dragonlensman!

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fezz View Post
    I refuse to do business with this "PARTNER"!

    I refer all Sillyhouette inquiries to Barry Santini and his fine establishment!
    Yes I'm silly.

    Barry

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    What's up? drk's Avatar
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    Dragon:

    Interesting idea. When you say "facet" are you differentiating from "lenticular/myodisk" and "roll/polish", or was that just a term you threw out there?

    Can you take a high minus and make a facetted look to hide the edge thickness? Does it look OK? Can you facet the front surface instead?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonLensmanWV View Post
    Here's a minus 15 in drill mount. With facets!
    Wow! Wow! and Wow!
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    Quote Originally Posted by finefocus View Post
    Also, rimless doesn't have the ring effect you get from a bevel, and also from a rimlon groove.
    Good point. That's why I never polish the edges for full metal frames- looks like the proverbial "Coke bottle".

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    Yes I'm silly.

    Barry
    Me too. I'll take any Silhouette overflow you can't handle.

    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    I bow to you, Master Dragonlensman!

    Barry
    Ditto. The second photo is visual art- I'm not sure what I'm seeing, and I like when that happens.

    To the OP: Sikhouette recommends no more than 6.5mm thickness at any hole, which is the length of the sleeve.
    Science is a way of trying not to fool yourself. - Richard P. Feynman

    Experience is the hardest teacher. She gives the test before the lesson.



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    Independent Owner kcount's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonLensmanWV View Post
    Here's a minus 15 in drill mount. With facets!
    Great job! Like the Facets.
    • Optician
    • Frame Maker/Designer
    • Teacher of the art of crafting handmade eyewear.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by drk View Post
    Dragon:

    Interesting idea. When you say "facet" are you differentiating from "lenticular/myodisk" and "roll/polish", or was that just a term you threw out there?

    Can you take a high minus and make a facetted look to hide the edge thickness? Does it look OK? Can you facet the front surface instead?
    I was referring to front side facets like they used to do. Heck, I still do one every now and then.
    My technique is to wrap tape around the drill as a marker so you only drill each hole 5 mm deep, then insert the bushings from the front since your holes don't go all the way through the lens, cut off and insert. I made a special plier to crimp with so you don't mar the back surface of the lens, and someone else suggested to use a bit of UV cure glue in the holes to secure the posts.
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    Quote Originally Posted by DragonLensmanWV View Post
    I was referring to front side facets like they used to do. Heck, I still do one every now and then.
    My technique is to wrap tape around the drill as a marker so you only drill each hole 5 mm deep, then insert the bushings from the front since your holes don't go all the way through the lens, cut off and insert. I made a special plier to crimp with so you don't mar the back surface of the lens, and someone else suggested to use a bit of UV cure glue in the holes to secure the posts.
    Very nice indeed.
    If I may ask what material did you use, and what drill system to you use
    I have never done a Facet don't know if I have the talent for some of the Facet work I have seen in the past.

    I humble bow to your skills in the art of drilling

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    Nice work Dragon. How do you keep them symetrical looking left and right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by loose-screw View Post
    Very nice indeed.
    If I may ask what material did you use, and what drill system to you use
    I have never done a Facet don't know if I have the talent for some of the Facet work I have seen in the past.

    I humble bow to your skills in the art of drilling
    That is 1.70 index Hoya ECP lenses. I use the Hilco drill, version 2 of it. Their first iteration of the drill had some problems, and this generation 2 has a few, and I don't know about their newest one.
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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter DragonLensmanWV's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharpstick777 View Post
    Nice work Dragon. How do you keep them symetrical looking left and right?
    Mark 1 eyeball. And I hold them up to each other during grinding of the facets to keep them as even as possible.
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