We're having issues with our wheel edgers on Trivex. We get a lot of slippage and its not the pads. We're using a Santinelli 9090 Express edger and we seem to have to do these jobs two or three times before they come out on axis.
Suggestions for processing Trivex anyone?
Bill MacGillivray ABOM
Director of Optical Operations
Eyehealth Northwest
Trio Wheels for Trivex from SuperAbrasive!
www.superabrasive.com
A lack of planning on your part DOES NOT constitute an emergency on mine!
Bill,
There are special wheels for Trivex and I recommend high power motors when you have the option.
Short of a special wheel I suggest using 2 or even 3 passes because you are putting less pressure on the lens, its not cutting in as far with each pass and not transfering as much force. You may need to increase your chuck pressure, but that is tricky with A/R so do so only carefully, but at least check your chuck pressure and set it on max.
Most manufactures suggest running the first pass or two on the poly setting and slow speed, then doing the last pass with water. And some people have found that counter rotating helps but I dont think Santinellis do.
Some A/R pads if they sit too long they losen up, so block quickly and then edge, use Riki pads and the pads that come with the A/R. I am in Portland often so coming by is an option.
Last edited by sharpstick777; 09-22-2009 at 11:01 AM.
Most of the trivex I sell is AR treated, and I have used Dragonlensman's suggestion with the extra pad on the inside of the lens. This has helped a lot with slippage.
Had similar problem and changed the roughing wheel to an Axiom wheel from Inland Diamond over a year ago and have not had a problem since. It works great with plastic and poly also. Wheel cost about $375 to the best of my recollection.
Lens slippage always occurs during the roughing cycle, no matter what the material.
Our 9090SE had a particular wheel setting for Trivex...instead of the two wheels coming in at a slow but steady rate, they would come in, then back off, then come in, then back off. The time between would slowly decrease, until it sounded like the wheels were "chattering" the material away. After the lens shape had been roughed out, it would proceed to be beveled or whatever as if it were edging a Poly lens. The water would only come on towards the end of that cycle. It was actually putting less stress on the lenses, and would keep the material from getting hot enough to make the Trivex swarf melt around the chucks. So I don't think it's your wheels, you just need to call Santinelli (or play around with it yourself--good luck!) and tweak the speeds at which the wheels are roughing the material.
This is one of the reasons why I like having an Optronics edger. The slippage problems are fewer and the build-up of debris non-existent.
I also have a wet edger and have considered one of the wheels from Superabrasive and Inland. The Superabrasive type is a regular roughing wheel with holes spaced out at regualr intervals for venting. I believe these could get clogged up and, therefore, am reluctant to buy this type of wheel. The Inland type seems better.
Originally Posted by Bill MacGillivray
I agree with the Superabrasive wheels...they are not that expensive(compared to Santinelli's super expensive replacement wheels from Nidek) and we have absolutely no slippage. (Santinelli 1000) They run cool ( they have holes in the wheels..and no they don't clog up). Look into it..I cut mostly trivex with ours. Gary:cheers:
Thanks I'll look into the wheels, I'm in the process now of altering the settings to see if it improves. I'll let you know how it turns out.
Bill MacGillivray ABOM
Director of Optical Operations
Eyehealth Northwest
Apart of a new or special wheel for TRIVEX are there any other less expensive options out there? We have a Santinelli 9000 and sell lots of Trivex, but slippage and remakes are a mjor concern to keeping the jobs in house.
In my humble opinion, if you don't have the right tools for the job, you will never be successful at what you are trying to accomplish. Buy the proper wheel and be rid of your dilemma.
The above quote is your best and least expensive option.
Call Santinelli and they will happily talk you through what needs to be changed. Wheel speed can be adjusted and there should be a specific setting for Trivex. You can make the changes in the edger and run test lenses with them on the phone to make sure that the settings work.
For the record, my personal preference, I HATE dry cut edgers. We have two Optronics 7E's in addition to our other wet edgers and I just don't like them. There's too much lens debribs flying around in the edger. And the blade has to be changed too often. A dull blade will do VERY bad things to lens, including twist it.
We've had our 9090 for about 2 years now and never needed any special wheels for any material.
There are rules. Knowing those are easy. There are exceptions to the rules. Knowing those are easy. Knowing when to use them is slightly less easy. There are exceptions to the exceptions. Knowing those is a little more tricky, and know when to use those is even more so. Our industry is FULL of all of the above.
We have a 9000sx espress and it has a setting for trivex which slows the wheels. We were cutting them on the poly setting and having slippage issues but after reading the manual we saw the trivex setting, tried it and it worked. We also put a blocking pad on the back side just incase :) No more issues.
Pez:D
I also have a 9000SX no problems with slipage on the TRVX setting BUT it does take a LONG TIME TO EDGE a lens.....at least 4 times longer than edging other lens materials.
Does the suprabrasive wheel also help decrease time of jobs on Trivex lenses????
Last edited by David_Garza; 11-18-2010 at 03:51 PM. Reason: grammer
Agree....I cut about 10 Trivex jobs per day on my dry cut with no issues. It's a thing of beauty. Wet cut edgers were never originally designed for poly or trivex; hence the issues and quick degradation of expensive diamond wheels.
I'm finally going to take the plunge and switch out my Edging Wheel for a Trio Model. Hopefully this will get us back to proper edging of Poly and trivex Materials.
You will be blown away by the new wheel!
I changes the way the machine works and will give you the most accurate work you have ever seen. The wheel needs to replaced once a year to ensure it is as sharp as it needs to be if you use a lot of trivex, poly or high index. It is well worth a few hundred bucks and is a wear item.
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