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Thread: What is Applied Cosmetic Dispensing?

  1. #1
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    What is Applied Cosmetic Dispensing?

    Once upon a time in Newport Beach I worked for a very prestgious optical company called Optica. Very, very, upper crust.
    Across from us not more than 50 feet was a Vidal Sassoon Salon. One of the people there, who's name I cannot mention because I don't have that persons permission, used to visit our shop often. Her curiosity about how we sold eyewear caught her attention. She would sit behind the register and eaves drop. Then, pop out and be all over our customers like, well, I won't say it. In the span of about 10 minutes, even less, this person would have 3 pair of glasses sold. Style unlimited, color, tints, shapes that made the face absolutely incredible. When done, she simply said . . . "Darling . . . you are going to look incredible when I'm done with you." How she did it, was totally amazing. This was not an optician. This was a cosmetologist who used frames and tints to "do" someone. Vision? That was a no brainer. She would say . . . show me the inside of your wrist. She would pull the skin back on the "client" like she was doing a face lift. She would grab hair and swing it over this way and that way. She would look at the "clients" make up and say . . . "tsk tsk tsk. . . . Darling, you are going the wrong way. We need to balance your natural colors. Look at your wrist. What do you see . . . look at it . . . tell me. And, the client would have no idea what to say. So our neighbor would say. . . . you have yellow in your skin . . . you dont want to wear orange blush. We're going to put a lavender blush in your glasses . . . so on and so forth about the shape

    Now, what is your opinion on presenting eyewear this radically. Obviously, it is NOT traditional eyewear sales. But, is there somethng wrong with the technique? Would or do you present eyewear that way?

    Now its your turn . . . .

  2. #2
    Master OptiBoarder Joann Raytar's Avatar
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    Alan,

    While we don't apply this technique quite as extravagantly as your visiting cosmetician, we do approach frame choice in the same manner; this approach is actually appreciated by folks, especially our female customers. It is too bad most frame boards don't take cosmetics into consideration.

    I think we all know the basic rules governing face shapes but we need to know about complementing attitude, skin tones, hair color and clothing also. The is nothing wrong with pampering the patients especially if you are a boutique.

    Another note. In the last store I used to work at we even offered customers snacks and tea or coffee. Believe it or not they would actually come by just to say hello because of how well they were treated.

  3. #3
    Bad address email on file optigoddess's Avatar
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    This may be slightly off-topic BUT I think it's an interesting point.

    Years ago, I had a customer who was a Mary Kay rep. I helped her with her eyewear selection and about 2 months later, she called & invited me to a seminar that her local meeting group of Mary Kay reps were sponsering -- a prominent, local DR's wife (and office manager) was presenting a class to the reps on how opthalmic eyewear can make it or break it as far as completing a polished look. I attended the meeting & found it interesting (this was back during my first 9 months of dispensing). Basically, the Dr's wife covered how extremely high plus or minus lenses MAGNIFY or MINIFY & how to apply makeup so that it compliments the person. Discussion was also around face shapes, frame designs (heavy brow line, temple placement etc). She also introduced the reps to MAKE-UP frames & who would benefit from them.

  4. #4
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    Jo and Optigoddess

    Isn't it strange that something as personal and vanity based as cosmetics and make up is kept at such arms length when we talk about eyewear sales?

    Years ago, Silhoutte made it a point of selling their product as fashion for the face. They came out with a little booklet that was without question the best material ever done. It was written by Carol Norbert, who I personally believe is one of the best cosmetic opticians we haver ever had and has been underpromoted badly.

    Based on just your two comments, I sense that a lot of folks have a courtship with cosmetics, yet the "marriage" has yet to come when it comes to including the concept in eyewear sales.

    When I had the freedom to do "my thing" I would study the buyers face for a few seconds. And, before saying a word out load I'd think: "that face is a certain shape and needs a certain frame shape as an answer to "what do I want to accomplish?" This lady or this guy has certain features I either want to enhance or replace. Do I want to slenderize the cheeks? Do I want to highlight her beautiful high cheek bones? Is this a fatso that needs to . .. etc. etc.

    Then there's the question: "Should I push Calvin Klein or Donna Karen or whoever BEFORE I tell the buyer what I want to accomplish, while I am advising on color and shape, or instead of?" Does Cal have a design theme or purpose? Does Donna? What can I say to a buyer about Dakota Smith that exemplifies that design concept THIS SEASON. It will be different NEXT FASHION SEASON.

    I know I'm not crazy. This is a subject we don't spend nearly enough time on. It's kind of an assumption that we all think that way . . . but, do we?
    I have a close friend who is a Beverly Hills plastic surgeon. He told me himself that what he does is talk to himself before he opens his mouth. Then he tells his patient what HE wants to do . .. and them picks up a cool ten grand a pop to slenderize the cheeks.

    Do we tell our buyer what WE want to accomplish or do we ask them what THEY want to accomplish and get a flop for an answer?

    I hope you will come back to this thread with more examples, because we all need (at least, I think we do) some new tools. I'd like to know more about what Optigoddess saw with the Mary Kay meeting. Thats the kind of stuff we should not walk past so quickly!

  5. #5
    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    Lifestyle Dispensing....

    Some years back (in the foggy recess's of my mind) I seem to recall a program, put together by a predessesor of VCA, called Lifestyle Dispensing.It had many of the features that you have discussed above.It was trying to get the dispenser to adapt eyewear choices to the customer's lifestyle.

    This program was a loosely disguised attempt to get dispensers focused on multiple pair dispensing, and provided techniques to do it.There were tapes I could get no one to listen to (staff), and periodical releases of promotional material designed to keep the focus on.I thought it was very well done, but it didn't take of with the sucess its orginators had planned and was eventually dropped.

    I think the cosmetologist next store to Al had absolutely the right idea and a proper approach.I think Al's description of the plastic surgeon's appoach was also appropriate.Its time we stepped up to the plate and stopped apologising for how much glasses cost, and go out and sell a few pair!:)

    Back to work!
    hj
    "Always laugh when you can. It is a cheap medicine"
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  6. #6
    Optical Educator
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    cosmetics are extremely important

    Hi Alan,

    I worked for Optica's competitor, Lugene Opticians for years and we did that kind of stuff alot. I draped my clients with fabric to determine if they were cool tone or warm tone, and we served sherry (Royal Esmarelda by Sanddeman) (sp?) Supposedly the best sherry available, from Spain.


    I presently teach my students to drape for color tone and to do a complete facial anaysis using facial charts. We also review the Envision Yourself program from VICA.

    When optical boutiques do this, their multiple sales go through the roof.

    Laurie "just because I like cosmetics doesn't make me a fluff head" Pierce

    : )

  7. #7
    Cape Codger OptiBoard Gold Supporter hcjilson's Avatar
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    Whatever happened to Lugene's....

    Laurie- You once said that we had met and I didn't know where-I think I remember it now! Did you used to run the Lugenes store in Copley Place??If so I remember!!!The president of Meyrowitz Bob Luckie and I went to the opening cocktail party.Gilbert Chambray was the head man if I recall.Beautiful store, beautiful concept.....what ever happened to it?

    Envision yourself is what they retitled Lifestyle Dispensing....I couldn't for the life of me remember what they called it.Thanks for the jolt!
    bst from harry j
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  8. #8
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    OK, guys . . . this is about . . . THE MIRROR

    The predessesor (sp?) of Optica (Victor Optical) built a store that was absolutely outrageous. Without the details let me share with you what happened with THE MIRROR!

    THE MIRROR was built into a cosmetic bay like a salon. It has little lights around it. There was a dimmer. The dimmer was NOT for the optician. It was for THE CUSTOMER. We seated the customer at the bay and said: "I have to step into the lab for a moment. Would you mind adjusting the lighting so you look your best?"

    And, lo and behold . . . they did! When the optician returned the lights were perfect the way the customer wanted it. To the immedite right and left of the bay was a honeycomb system housing the best eyewear we had. We also had a display dead center in the room like a glass casket that had only the elite of eyewear. We proceeded to analyze the customers features STANDING BEHIND THE CUSTOMER LOOKING INTO THE MIRROR WITH THEM! We elegently took the eyewear selection and placed it on the patient FROM BEHIND (You have to learn to do that without poking out an eye!), put our hands on the customers shoulders and said . . . . "Isn't that YOU!?" Then we said . . . "Do you need to adjust the light again?"

    The secret was the light. That's what sold the glasses. The customer set the conditions under which they would buy the glasses. The second and third pair were just as easy to sell because the customer decided how to look. It was incredible. The average sale was two pair at about $950.00. . . Cazal, Silhouette, Neostyle, and some designer stuff that was a little cheaper. Not too many Flexons . . . we didn't sell by brute force frames . . . this was "Vanityville"

    The problem was that the company went out of business before the store matured. It was part of a 13 store chain. The next owner was an optometrist who said the cosmetic bays were ridiculous and very unprofessional and definitely not appropriate for a doctors office. They got yanked and replaced with tables. Last I heard was his doubles were down to 12% from 60% with the bays.

    And, my point is . . .
    Darned if I know! I just wanted you to know that there's an additional way that really works and I'm going to do it here in Seabrook, if I can get the doctor to stop laughing and looking down his nose at the idea! The best laid plans of mice and men . . . don't apply to doctors . . . or sumthin like that!

  9. #9
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    I had a course not too long ago where the proctor (who owned several dispensaries) said that when she needed help she went to the cosmetic counter in department stores and hired the help away. She felt that it was much easier to make dispensers out of such salespeople than it was to make sales out of dispensers.

    I also know that we have a hairdresser/botique next door run by a couple of nice gay fellows. When they stop in with some of thier customers, I sell several very expensive frames/lenses.

    Chip

  10. #10
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    chip

    Many moons ago my mothers hairdresser, Cliff, decided to leave the hair biz. So, he walked into the Wizard of Eyes (my store) and said . . . "let me try this."
    I said: "IIII dunno, Cliff. You need some optical training."
    He said: "So, teach me!"
    I said: " But it isn't that easy."

    A customer walked in as we were talking. He said:
    "Wait right here. I'll be right back."
    He ate up the carpeting!
    Went straight for the customer.
    They had a ball. 3 pairs.
    I took the PD's., made the glasses and fitted them.
    And, when the lady came back she insisted that Cliff be the one to "check them out!"
    He walked the talk of cosmetics and fashion and I walked the talk about optics.

    I gotta go find me another Cliff.

    See ya later.

    You guys are inspiring me.

    Thanks

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    Lugene Opticians

    Hi Harry,

    Unfortunately, Lugene Opticians was sold in the early 90's to a couple of people from another area of our profession who really didn't know how to run a high-end chain or negotiate contracts at places like Copley Place Boston. At one point we had about 30 stores around the US.

    Even though the stores were profitable, the new owners were unable to renegotiate the contracts and lost many of them. Contract negotiating was one of Gilbert's greatest talents.

    It was an amazing company, founded in 1922 in NYC by a frenchman, Ernest Lugene.

    I had one client buy two pair for $11.000! One pair, Zeiss solid gold, $6,000. the second, genuine tortoise shell, $5,000. We received 10% as the optician, so it was a very profitable endeavor. I still make less $$ per year (10 years later) than I made there!!! (no complaints, though...)

    The sister company to Lugene, Pierre Marly Opticians in Paris is still thriving. One of their optical boutiques has an optical museum below it...

    Anyway, thanks for asking. It allows me to take a nice trip down memory lane.

    Any other Lugener's out there? How many optiboarders have never heard of them??

    Have a great afternoon,

    Laurie : )

  12. #12
    Master OptiBoarder Alan W's Avatar
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    Laurie

    Lugene's was the standard of excellence everyone should strive for. I knew the store in Newport Beach, Ca.
    Along side them I think Meyerwitz deserves a plug.
    Those were real opticians.
    Oops, forgive me. I wasn't supposed to say that.
    Even transferees from the hardware department at Walmart . . . are opticians!
    So, I guess that makes Lugene's people heavenly bodies in more ways than one.
    I can appreciate your experience. I spent some time in Wiesbaden and learned what uncompromising quality is.
    That trip down memory lane represents a standard that too many corporate optimanagers just dont understand.
    Dont let that slip from your memory. At least you are in the right place to perpetuate it.

    Later

  13. #13
    Bad address email on file optigoddess's Avatar
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    Today, I was browsing about "All About Vision" and I came across an interesting article about ACCESSORIZING WITH EYEWEAR. (under: eyeglass topics). I think it is an interesting article because it relates the brands & styles of clothing to relevant suggestions for eyewear designs. Food for Thought!

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    high quality dispensing

    Hi Alan,

    It is funny that you mention about my being in the right place to perpetuate it...that was one of the biggest motives to go into teaching. I can't change the world, but I get 20-30 new faces every year, and I can definitely influence how they view dispensing eyewear.

    I also believe that the same principles can be done anywhere (well, maybe not the serving sherry part). I try to help my student strive for such excellence in any environment, corporate or otherwise. A difficult challenge they come up against, though, is that many companies do not want their opticians to offer premium products like high index, aspheric lenses with AR coating.

    Most large corporations and wholesale optical companies only offer a couple of lens options, and one or two brands. This really holds the optician back from creating different varieties of fabulous eyewear.

    ??????

    Laurie

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