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Thread: adjusting large plastic sunglasses

  1. #1
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    adjusting large plastic sunglasses

    How do I adjust large plastic sunglasses that have become too wide? For ex. Versace suns with stones on temples. The plastic is so thick and hard to manipulate. I'm afraid to place in salt pan too long b/c of stones. I don't seem to be able to bring them in. Any help would be appreciated. Also, how long can I safely put frame in salt pan w/o damage?

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    Master OptiBoarder optical24/7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nepa Bhadra View Post
    How do I adjust large plastic sunglasses that have become too wide? w/o damage?

    Give them to an optician!

    :cheers:

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Gold Supporter Judy Canty's Avatar
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    I really don't want to sound flippant, but that's like asking "how much are cars?" Every frame is different and will react differently to heat. If you're not comfortable doing this, you would be best served to find someone with some experience with these kinds of issues.

  4. #4
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    They can be very hard to adjust. Using a hot air frame warmer would work better then a salt/sand pan.

    Sometimes if you can't heat the end pieces at all you can heat the bridge and give it a little more curve. If the frame has AR lenses they need to be removed first.

    Making sure the frame fits in the first place is a good idea, too.

  5. #5
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    Be damn carefull if any plyers are used. If you get one over a stone the stone will shatter.

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    Thanks to those who replied. BTW, I do have an optician but she is out for a few days and I thought this would be a friendly website for anyone to ask a question.

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    There's basicly two ways to do it. This of course, depends a lot on what the frame is like. You can either warm up the ends of the front (where the front meets the temples) with a hot air blower, and using either a folded up towel or some wadded up paper towel, push the frame down against your worktable/bench/whatever, using the towel as a buffer, so you don't scratch it up. If you can't do that, your only other option is to add faceform. Warm the bridge up using the blower again, and bend till it's tight again. I don't like to do this, especially with the larger lenses, but sometimes it's the only option.

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    Take a paper towel, wrap the temple and then wrap a ruber band around the frame, heat the frame, make the adjustment or, take off the towel quickly and adjust. If diamond comes out, stay in towel.
    :bbg:
    History Reapeats Itself

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    OptiBoard Apprentice Lachrymator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AdmiralKnight View Post
    There's basicly two ways to do it. This of course, depends a lot on what the frame is like. You can either warm up the ends of the front (where the front meets the temples) with a hot air blower, and using either a folded up towel or some wadded up paper towel, push the frame down against your worktable/bench/whatever, using the towel as a buffer, so you don't scratch it up. If you can't do that, your only other option is to add faceform. Warm the bridge up using the blower again, and bend till it's tight again. I don't like to do this, especially with the larger lenses, but sometimes it's the only option.
    This should definately be a last resort, because this can easily alter the optics if the optical center is not aligned with the patient's pupil. Patients with high Rx's will notice a difference if the lenses are not aligned properly with their pupils.

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    OptiBoardaholic bt5050's Avatar
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    REMOVE the lens - and CORRECT

    i have the best of luck - correcting those
    frames that get widened due to use - or even manufacturing ( esp when the lens is to flat - or the (A) is to wide --)
    it always seems to widen the frame way to much -

    To get them back anywhere close to where they orginally started - and shoudl be I ALWAYS remove the lenses - heat the corner - and actually OVER CORRECT the angle -( I MEAN ALLOT !! )
    I GO WAY beyond the correct position - by 30-40 degrees - and then while it is still warm - i insert the lens -

    I have always had great success with this - and once you insert he lens - it bends the frame back to the correct alignment almost perfectly -

    Personally - i hate when i have pts come in - and i see that someone else - has bent the bridge so much - and places this huge wrap on the frame - when in fact the temples - are still out 20 degrees to much on each temple -
    It seems that most of these half fix - adjustments - will not hold - for the pts - and they are unhappy after just a few times of removing their glasses

  11. #11
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    Blue Jumper

    Just about right on the dot.

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    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    The procedure I use (which I detailed in an L&T article recently) when *normal* heating aligning doesn't *take* is to:

    Drill a small hole, using a #60 drill bit, in the end of either the front (preferable) or the temple. Then tap it out with a 1.3mm tap, and insert a black, 1.36mm screw. Drive the screw down to the bottom, and back out to decrease the temple *splay* as desired. Sometimes this will later result in the front exhibiting reverse panoramic angle at the bridge. This, of course, is not this procedure's fault, but rather the poor quality of the material the vendor chose to make the frame out of.

    It's a great fix, and a terrific alternate way to try to reduce the stretch of these frames.

    Barry

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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    The procedure I use (which I detailed in an L&T article recently) when *normal* heating aligning doesn't *take* is to:

    Drill a small hole, using a #60 drill bit, in the end of either the front (preferable) or the temple. Then tap it out with a 1.3mm tap, and insert a black, 1.36mm screw. Drive the screw down to the bottom, and back out to decrease the temple *splay* as desired. Sometimes this will later result in the front exhibiting reverse panoramic angle at the bridge. This, of course, is not this procedure's fault, but rather the poor quality of the material the vendor chose to make the frame out of.

    It's a great fix, and a terrific alternate way to try to reduce the stretch of these frames.

    Barry

    Brilliant!

    :cheers::cheers::cheers::cheers:

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    Redhot Jumper Use both hands...................

    Anybody that has been around in the 1970s the last wave of large frames and oversize lenses has adjusted large frames without stopping as there was just about only large ones.

    Barry Santonis way is good and new idea I never thought of in the old days.

    On the other hand if the frame would have been properly adjusted to begin, and the patient would use 2 hands to put glasses on or off, the problem would not occur.

  15. #15
    Master OptiBoarder OptiBoard Silver Supporter Barry Santini's Avatar
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    Chris, I must be honest here:

    My "idea" is not *new*...

    The idea for the procedure I outlined here I got from seeing one of the last IMPERIAL OPTICAL frames in the late 80's. On it was a small "thumb-wheel" that you spun that raised and lowered a screw-like *butt* point for affecting the temple splay. I think the literature that came with it said it was patented, but I'm not sure.

    My idea was a home-grown approximation of this design. Not bad, eh?

    Barry

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    Remember that for many patients wearing the oversize frames in both sun and clear, wearing them on top of the head. In some cases wearing them there may be as usefull as wearing them as the manufacturer intended. Some of the rediculously priced "designer" suns come to mind as the lenses in them are basicly junk. You are shot down on trying to make a lasting adjustment on same.
    We just have to get it through our heads that very few people, no matter how much "education", instruction, or whatever we give them, do what we tell them to do. Suspect that even the best of them do what we tell them all the time everytime. Just ask any old contact lens fitter.

    We should keep this in mind and just live with it, as the customer is not going to change. Especially the patient who is rich (and usually spoiled) enough to shell out for high ticket items. Now the patient who can't afford high ticket items and buys them anyway, might be more cautious, but lots of people buy stuff for status only. And one of the things that goes with status is the abililty to exibit utter disreguard for thier status symbol toys. Something like throwing a $250.00 sweater on the floor when the occasion comes that it might be better to take it off in a hurry as opposed to hanging it up neatly and carefully.

    Chip

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    Master OptiBoarder Ginster's Avatar
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    Most of us are Friendly and here to help.

    Quote Originally Posted by Nepa Bhadra View Post
    How do I adjust large plastic sunglasses that have become too wide? For ex. Versace suns with stones on temples. The plastic is so thick and hard to manipulate. I'm afraid to place in salt pan too long b/c of stones. I don't seem to be able to bring them in. Any help would be appreciated. Also, how long can I safely put frame in salt pan w/o damage?
    Everyone is correct that said a frame warmer is best. Call your lab and order it through them if they have a program running where you send in coupons with every job til it is paid off. When you purchase a frame warmer, or other products from the lab, they send it to you with coupons, with every job, and coupon they credit your account. I know Hoya used to do this, It's how we got new pupilometers, and a frame warmer. it's been a couple of years though.

    Good Luck, Ginster;)

  18. #18
    Master OptiBoarder TLG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barry Santini View Post
    The procedure I use (which I detailed in an L&T article recently) when *normal* heating aligning doesn't *take* is to:

    Drill a small hole, using a #60 drill bit, in the end of either the front (preferable) or the temple. Then tap it out with a 1.3mm tap, and insert a black, 1.36mm screw. Drive the screw down to the bottom, and back out to decrease the temple *splay* as desired. Sometimes this will later result in the front exhibiting reverse panoramic angle at the bridge. This, of course, is not this procedure's fault, but rather the poor quality of the material the vendor chose to make the frame out of.

    It's a great fix, and a terrific alternate way to try to reduce the stretch of these frames.

    Barry
    I'm impressed...

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