Lindberg Mounting...

**sharpstick777** · 08-19-2008, 01:49 PM

This is a question for all you knowledgable Lab Guru's. If you don't know, Lindberg's use a drilled notch and UV adhesive to mount drilled rimless frames. You are supposed to use 1.60 lenses because the adhesive does not work well with Poly. There is no compression mounting like Silhoutte's.

However...

A patient's daughter came in and her new dog had munched her father's Lindberg temples, he got his glasses in LA not at our office(Seattle) . When exchanging the temples I cracked a lens and discovered they were poly... so ouch. Now I am at loss on how to mount the temples because it looks like they did use some kind of adhesive, just not the correct one (the adhesive is not strong, I was able to remove the temples without glue remover).

Is there a poly safe adhesive that they could have used? Superglue? Or am I stuck remaking both lenses into 1.60, or just dry mounting the temples into poly?

Any advice from anyone with Lindberg experience would result in my deepest admiration.

Sharpstick

**optical24/7** · 08-19-2008, 02:52 PM

Don't use Super glue, it contains acetone and will damage your poly lens. The only glue I've had luck on poly is 3M Super Strength Adhesive.

**Judy Canty** · 08-19-2008, 02:57 PM

There are 2 Loctite products suitable for poly...4850 and 460. Both are available through Breitfeld & Schliekert via Luzerne.

**optical24/7** · 08-19-2008, 03:20 PM

Originally Posted by Judy Canty

There are 2 Loctite products suitable for poly...4850 and 460. Both are available through Breitfeld & Schliekert via Luzerne.

Judy, do those have color to them?

**Judy Canty** · 08-19-2008, 03:35 PM

No color-transparent

**EyeFitWell** · 08-19-2008, 04:39 PM

Dry clear, anyway

Take a junk poly lens and try a few different kinds of glue...guerilla glue I think might work

**Craig** · 08-20-2008, 08:01 PM

Originally Posted by sharpstick777

This is a question for all you knowledgable Lab Guru's. If you don't know, Lindberg's use a drilled notch and UV adhesive to mount drilled rimless frames. You are supposed to use 1.60 lenses because the adhesive does not work well with Poly. There is no compression mounting like Silhoutte's.

However...

A patient's daughter came in and her new dog had munched her father's Lindberg temples, he got his glasses in LA not at our office(Seattle) . When exchanging the temples I cracked a lens and discovered they were poly... so ouch. Now I am at loss on how to mount the temples because it looks like they did use some kind of adhesive, just not the correct one (the adhesive is not strong, I was able to remove the temples without glue remover).

Is there a poly safe adhesive that they could have used? Superglue? Or am I stuck remaking both lenses into 1.60, or just dry mounting the temples into poly?

Any advice from anyone with Lindberg experience would result in my deepest admiration.

Sharpstick

We use trivex and do a few Lindbergs per day, it has been a good seller for along time. The poly will show fractures and the 1.6 breaks. The slots need to be the exact size ( I can get for you) and you can do without the glue. But in trivex loctite is fine and suggested.

Let me know if we can help or even edge the lenses for you.

Craig

**sharpstick777** · 08-20-2008, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by Craig

We use trivex and do a few Lindbergs per day, it has been a good seller for along time. The poly will show fractures and the 1.6 breaks. The slots need to be the exact size ( I can get for you) and you can do without the glue. But in trivex loctite is fine and suggested.

Let me know if we can help or even edge the lenses for you.

Craig

Thanks! I had wondered if Trivex is too hard to get a clean notch... if there was a increased chance of the bit jumping but I guess that depends the type of drill you use (I actually have not touched an edger for years).

My labs hate doing Trivex for anything...

Sharpstick

**chip anderson** · 08-20-2008, 08:40 PM

EyeFitWell: Aren't all poly lenses junk?

**optigrrl** · 08-21-2008, 12:44 AM

Originally Posted by sharpstick777

Thanks! I had wondered if Trivex is too hard to get a clean notch... if there was a increased chance of the bit jumping but I guess that depends the type of drill you use (I actually have not touched an edger for years).

My labs hate doing Trivex for anything...

Sharpstick

I have heard that if your edgers allow you to grind at a slower speed then trivex is a breeze.

**jjbons** · 08-21-2008, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by sharpstick777

My labs hate doing Trivex for anything...

If you are doing Lindbergs or any other drill or groove frame and your are not using Trivex because your labs hate doing Trivex then you need to find some new labs.

JB

**Craig** · 08-21-2008, 10:57 AM

Originally Posted by sharpstick777

Thanks! I had wondered if Trivex is too hard to get a clean notch... if there was a increased chance of the bit jumping but I guess that depends the type of drill you use (I actually have not touched an edger for years).

My labs hate doing Trivex for anything...

Sharpstick

It is the best overall material to process, if your lab is in-house they need a new roughing wheel from me at www.superabrasive.com Once you put a trivex wheel on any edger it will improve the ability to process all materials better than ever. It make trivex a breeze to edge.
Let me know!
Craig
Technology Broker

**Jacqui** · 08-21-2008, 11:05 AM

Originally Posted by jjbons

If you are doing Lindbergs or any other drill or groove frame and your are not using Trivex because your labs hate doing Trivex then you need to find some new labs.

JB

So true !!

**sharpstick777** · 08-21-2008, 12:26 PM

Originally Posted by Craig

It is the best overall material to process, if your lab is in-house they need a new roughing wheel from me at www.superabrasive.com Once you put a trivex wheel on any edger it will improve the ability to process all materials better than ever. It make trivex a breeze to edge.
Let me know!
Craig
Technology Broker

I've heard that Trivex eats expensive wheels, does yours last as long as High Index wheel? Can it be put on all edgers?

Also, Lindberg reccommends 1.6 over Trivex.

Sharpstick

**Craig** · 08-21-2008, 01:14 PM

Originally Posted by sharpstick777

I've heard that Trivex eats expensive wheels, does yours last as long as High Index wheel? Can it be put on all edgers?

Also, Lindberg reccommends 1.6 over Trivex.

Sharpstick

The key to that is no wheel lasts with the new materials! I change my roughing wheel after 3,000-4,000 cuts to keep it sharp. All materials, except cr-39, put great strain on a normal roughing wheel; they were designed for CR-39 and never accounted for the trivex, poly and hi index of today. The best thing you can do for any edger is replace the roughing wheel with the new design. It is 100% better on all edgers for all materials. The edger and your lab techs ears will thank you! :D:D

In Europe, they use almost no trivex yet, but it there is no reason to use 1.6 over trivex. We have done them in-house for over 8 years and the lenses even mount better in trivex. We used to do over 15% re-do for breakage and it is now zero.

Once you try the new wheel and trivex; you will wonder how you ever did it the old way.

Craig
TEchnology Broker