Drill Mount Glass

[ricko]

My question has to do with obtaining drill mount glass lenses!
I’d like to say that the reason for my asking came about after owning a pair of the titanium frame glasses in which the “over the nose” wire holding the two lenses together broke at the weld. Right where the wire joins the lens (no I wasn’t hit in the face with a baseball)! These frames were only two years old! I had just had a two-year check-up and went back to the store where I purchased the frames to see if they could weld them or replace the front piece, as the temples were still good, and at the same time install new lenses. The man explained to me that my frames were no longer made. He said that he’d be happy to sell me a different pair! My reply was that I wouldn’t deal in any product with built in obsolescence. These glasses originally cost me close to $400.00 and lasted only two years! I hope this isn’t the standard practice of the eye glass industry in order to gain sales!
I’ve been the route with the plastic lenses. I’ve seen how after a years time the UV coating starts to take on a “rainbow of color” effect. As for the lenses themselves, even after a week and a new soft cotton cloth, they still seem to attract a myriad of wisping scratches. We also know that the optical clarity is less with plastic than that of the glass lenses. Glass is good!
I currently have two pairs of glasses that I’m looking to get drill mount glass in. The first is a pair of gold filled pince nez frames, and my other is a pair of gold three piece frames marked B & L with what appears to be a hex shaped lens. Very similar to what my grandfather would have worn during the 30’s. I’ve picked these up at a reasonable price and I think they’re something that any jewelry shop could probably gold solder should they break. They currently are fitted with plastic and do have all the problems mentioned above. I've again just had my eyes checked and would like to get new lenses.
I'd hoped that I could get a straight answer from this forum on the subject of drill mount glass lenses.

Now I know many of you hear the term “drill mount glass” and right away that CYA attitude kicks in! I’ve read many of the CYA lectures on this forum against the use of glass, so please, spare me the lectures. LOL
Let me assure you that I don’t play baseball, I don’t work in a machine shop or sculpt granite for a living!
I’m 51 years old, I sit in front of a computer all day, and my passion as a photographer allows me to handle and view through some very nice optically clear glass! Thus the appreciation for glass lenses! Plastic lenses really suck!
Ever wonder why when you get your eyes checked, why every line looks so clear and crisp? Why it’s those plastic lenses in the Dr's. equipment don't you know! LOL

I don’t remember my grandfather, grandmother, great-grandmother or great-grandfather ever having lost an eye to a broken lens! In fact, I’d be interested in hearing from someone who makes glass eyes, if as to how many they’ve made for a lost eye due to a broken lens? I think a little common sense is in order here regarding the use of glass lenses!

And I’m sure that nearly everyone who probably ground glass lenses years ago has replaced their equipment with the more modern machines that produce a lens from a plastic blank. So why promote glass when there’s plastic,less labor, more money, poorer product!

So my question comes down to this. Is it against any law to drill mount glass lenses into 3 piece frames in the U.S.?
If not, then is there anyone out there that would still do this type of lens replacement with a new prescription for the frames I described above?

Is Canada an option if I can’t get it done in the U.S.?

Thank for your consideration to my question. From one who loves to view the world through a clear piece of glass!

[chip anderson]

I have made 150 artificial eyes a year for 42 years. I have made none from broken glasses. I have seen some horror stories about glass eyes breaking. All in the US are now plastic. I understand glass drill mounts are still legal if drilling is done before glass is tempered. Quite a few done in the Mississippi Delta.

Chip

[For-Life]

I would first like to say that it is too bad what has happened to you previously, and I wish you best of luck in the future. Remember that not all us as will give you a rotten experience.

I did want to clarify something about the UV coating breaking off. There are better coatings than others out there. Now that coating is not actually a UV coating, but an Anti-Reflection coating. What has happened in the past is through manufacturing problems and other problems a lot of coatings have not held up well. The good news is there are new coatings on the market that are not only much more stable, but are very easy to clean. Four of them that I recommmend are the Sola Teflon, Crizal Alize, Super Hivision, and Zeiss Carat Advantage.

Now, is it a good idea to wear glass? I would advice strongly against it. The first problem is safety. Now I know you are not in a situation where you feel safety is an issue, but what happens if you are in a car accident? What happens if somehow you trip and fall? Additionally, I can tell you that the glass lens will not hold up in that frame as well as a plastic, trivex, or polycarbonate lens. So, if you do get glass lenses, I strongly suggest a full frame (basically, it is a sacrifice). Additionally, the Anti-Reflective coatings on glass will not clean up as well as the ones I previously mentioned.

I think, if you pick one of those coatings you will be more than happy with materials other than glass, but if you do pick glass you should really stick with a full frame.

[Ryan]

First of all I would disagree with your "plastic lenses really suck" comment. What is your prescription? I was just curious as far as a weight issue. I am assuming weight doesn't really matter?

[eromitlab]

ricko;

you'll be hard-pressed to find anyone to actually sell you drill mounted glass lenses, simply because of the "apparent risks" of glass lenses. I agree, glass is far superior to any plastic lens out there in some ways... but what you're asking for is incredibly hard to find in the good 'ol litigious U.S. of A.. It's too much of a legal issue to many companies and since it has become somewhat obsolete, that makes it harder to find and more expensive. However, if you search around and really stick to your guns, you might get what you want. Don't be suprised if it comes with some sort of liability waiver or finger wagging.

If you're willing to give something else a go, I'd reccomend a high-index plastic or aspheric polycarbonate lens, coupled with an AR coating... the clarity is not quite that of glass, but it's almost as good. Plastics don't really suck all that much anymore, as you seem to believe.

what I find hard to believe that they didn't have a comparable part for maybe a later design by the same manufacturer to replace the bridge piece. I've replaced the bridges out on a couple frames with different models with no ill effects (as long as they were about the same size)... you might want to go back and lean a little harder on the optician. The parts aren't always perfectly interchangeable, but you can usually find something that will work (with a little patience and skill).

good luck in your search...

[CME4SPECS]

Will drilled glass pass the drop ball??

[Chris Ryser]

I did want to clarify something about the UV coating breaking off. There are better coatings than others out there. Now that coating is not actually a UV coating, but an Anti-Reflection coating.

Foe-Life has a good point,

UV coatings can only be made on plastic lenses and penetrate the pores of the surface and which closes its pores when cooling off after treatment. The UV material cystalizes inside the surface and is not removable.

Glass itself absorbs most UV anyhow. AR coatings have been made on glass since the 1930s (camera lenses) and have never had any adhearnce problems. Glass and Silicone dioxide(AR coating material) are some of the most natural products, originating from sand.

AR coating adherance problems occur only on plastic lenses. That is why a layer of mostly thermocure polysiloxanes is applied (you guys call it a hard coat, which it is not) which adheres to the plastic lens and also lets the AR coating adhere properly.

[shellrob]

It's funny how time and time again we Opticians on here are accused of attacking a consumer who is simply here for some advice, but man oh man, this thread started out attacking those same Opticians that he wants answers from. If you want the correct and honest answer, you'll get it here, but if you want us to lie just so you can hear what you want to hear..you're in the wrong place.

[ricko]

Shellrob, why is it when a consumer comes on this forum asking a question you feel it’s an attack? You all sure did a number on Paatrices’ question farther down on this forum! She described a financial situation that restricted her from purchasing one of the overly priced frames of today and many of you jumped all over her for bargain hunting.
If the question is on something you don’t handle, you attack them for asking. I asked about getting drill mount glass lenses because glass is optically more clear, doesn’t scratch like plastic, and can be cleaned with any paper towel. Ever see a painter clean paint specs off his glass lenses with a rag and a little terp? Bet you can’t do that with plastic! Yet you insist on shoving plastic down my throat!
I have here in my hand, a gold three-piece frame with glass lenses circa 1940. The frames are beautiful and the lenses are scratch free. They’ve been worn for several years and thrown in a drawer for several. I just cleaned the lenses with my shirttail and no scratches! They display today a better quality than one can find in a frame and plastic lenses sold today, that only last for two years! Then again back in the 40’s they had craftsmen, not operators! You folks yourselves are no different from those consumers looking for quality and a fair price in their eyewear. Heck, I shoot senior pictures of kids for your types all the time, who only want to buy the minimum number of prints and then try to get more by scanning them on a home computer or going to Kinko’s to see if they’ll copy them. Ignoring copyright laws is no problem when it comes to money going out of YOUR wallets!
So my question still stands, if you do glass I’d be interested in hearing from you. If you’ve sunk all your money in plastic lens machinery, don’t reply trying to convince me of using plastic. Can’t be any simpler than that!

[Dragonlensman]

[QUOTE=Chris Ryser]Foe-Life has a good point,

Glass itself absorbs most UV anyhow. AR coatings have been made on glass since the 1930s (camera lenses) and have never had any adhearnce problems. Glass and Silicone dioxide(AR coating material) are some of the most natural products, originating from sand.

Years ago when I first aquired a UV meter, I was curious about this. Since I had always heard that glass absorbed UV, I was curious as to how interior upholstery got so faded. I tested a Hoya uv absorbing glass lens versus an uncoated regular cr-39 lens. The supposedly uv-absorbing glass lens absorbed only about 7% of UV while the untreated cr-39 lens absorbed around 50%.
Now that applies only to clear glass, as we all know PGX and G-15 type lenses do an excellent job.
As for glass drill-mounts, few people still have the diamond drills and cutting oil necessary to drill glass. When I was learning the trade at White-Haines, I drilled a few glass lenses. Even with chamfering, many lenses just broke. Of course that was before chem-treatment was available. I assume that if lenses were drilled prior to chem hardening, you might have something that will actually stand up to being taken off and put back on, instead of breaking.
As someone else noted, there are significantly more durable anti-scratch and AR coatings now.
You can always buy a new lens, but can you buy a new eye?:o

[chip anderson]

I can always make them a good prosthetic eye. If anyone has a source for Devine Spit I can make them one they can see out of.


Chip

Of course those glass lenses shattered if they were drilled after tempering.
Even a chip or deep scratch can destroy tempering patterns.