Also welding the tounge in the spring sleve works. On some just peening it will last until replacement temple arrives.
Also welding the tounge in the spring sleve works. On some just peening it will last until replacement temple arrives.
We always clamp it down. Use the rivet clamp in the back with the part that has the thinner metal end (you have to love technical terms) and do a slight punch. Holds it for a long while.
These are so typically one of the most disgusting items you see in optical offices, as some just never seem to change the salt. I imagine that 2 cans of salt might cost 5.00
If you think about it, look how much stuff winds up in your salt pan on a daily basis, everyones sweat, ear wax, geri curl, anything else women and men put in there hair, maybe even some dried blood.
i cant imagine how much bacteria must live in these salt pans, and i realize a certain amount of it gets killed by heat, but what about the rest?
In short guys, change the salt more often, i visited one of my stores recently where the salt had been in this pan so long it was brown.
Who uses salt anymore Harry?
What are you using coolant for? Good point for being very careful with peanut oil. Before I do anything with a grooved lense I put the specs in the ultrasound. It's amazing how much gunk collects in the nylon, not to mention the nosepads:finger:
The office I'm in now has been using lamp oil for removing the markings on progressive lenses. Anyone have any comments on this?
Ol' Dog
Putting screwdriver tips in hydrogen peroxide - does this rust them? I have a keen student who soaked our tools in bleach overnight. What a mess.Originally Posted by harry a saake
Ol' Dog
sorry Chip, i forgot you are still using cone heaters
old dog, no it will not rust them if dried right away, actuually you just need a couple of hours as the peroxide will dissipate and be useless
Harry:
Actually I had a set of cone heaters at my last place of employment, when I left I was given the priviledge of light fingering any thing I wanted. For some reason I didn't take them. Wish I had today. Didn't really know what they were for at the time.
Chip
have you tested that? our dr used to keep tweezers and such in hydrogen peroxide and they did rust. he now keeps them in metracide i think.
All my life I have been worried with fishing line spools that unravel with time. I've tried rubber bands (which rot), string, tape, gum and what not.
Believe it or not this also a problem in the optical business as we have to have a couple rolls around for chord mount frames.
Well, It finally hit me that I have very small drill bits, so I too a bit just a little larger than the diameter of the line and drilled two holes about a quarter inch apart in the outer edge of the spool. Threaded the end of the line through and it won't unravel any more.
Chip
I put a notch on the edges of the spool to hold the mono. One quick hit with the Dremel does the job. Works great.
another way is just to cut up a whole number of these 3 inches long, you will seldom if ever use one longer
now that at least 37 different frame bevels have been identified, it would probably be good to ask the frame rep, or the manufacturer, just what type bevel does this frame have, especially if you are doing in house edging
i recently needed to re-block a lens to fine it again. but being a plus, it was smaller than the chill ring on my surface blocker. the solution was to use a wax chip to 'spoon' some liquid wax out of the reservoir into a finished sv lens with a back curve similar to the front curve of the lens to be re-fined, then while the wax was still hot press the small lens into it. then i marked the 180 on the edges of the finished lens and blocked as usual. see image attached.
A friend of mine works for such a tightwad he can't even get lens liner even though two thirds of the lenses they send him are too small. His solution to this problem is to take the riged plastic zip-lock part of a plastic bag, trim it down and insert this piece of plastic between the lens and metal frame. Believe it or not it works.
i believe it works. i just don't believe it's cheaper.
penny-wise, pound-foolish.
OpticaLabRat's lens "liner" trick with the superglue works great. Have your friend try it. You can get 3 tubes of superglue in a package at the dollar store for . . . $1.
I assume you are leting the glue dry in the eye wire before putting the lens back?
What post number was it? I didn't see it.
After seeing some of the damage patients have done with super glue I try to keep it as far away from a pair of eyeglasses as possible. It does have it's purpose in some situations but there is not time to let super glue dry. As for the cost, I'm talking about those little plastic baggies frames come in. We throw them away when they are worn out any way.
ok, i see now. that's clever. i fully endorse the reuse of materials that would otherwise go in the trash.
I have finally found one of the best ways ever of doing this task
normally most of us use the little ribbons that are usually packed in with the monafilament, or we make our own from strapping material from a delivery box
the problems with the ribbons is they often tend to leave an annoying little piece in the groove under the mono, and now you cant get it out, unless you unmount the lens. the heavy strapping materials are more prone to chipping the edge of the lens as they are heavy and course.
so instead of all these items use a piece of monofilament, about 10 pound test is plenty. make it about a foot long, so you have plenty of room to grab onto it with your hands.
this provides excellent torque and leverage, so you can work the piece of mono around the lens, the best part is when you take it out, it comes out so easy, as the mono is round and somewhat slippery and does not chip the edge, do it a few times and you will never want to use one of those little ribbons again
Gee Harry, when I said that, you said it could chip the lens groove.
[QUOTE=Jo;8063]This one may not be as relevant today as it was a few years ago but ...
If a tempered glass lens comes out of a heat treat or chem unit with a spot on it, often (not always) a pencil eraser will get it off.
Now my search for an answer. What is anyone's method for removing a lens from a grooved rimless mount whithout chipping it when it is in there good and extra snug.
[This message has been edited by Jo (edited 10-30-2000).][/QUOTE
Don't use plastic for rimless grooves.
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