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Thread: Quick Alize Question

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    Independent Problem Optiholic edKENdance's Avatar
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    Quick Alize Question

    I know the coating is slippery and I've been told that there is an adhesive(?) coating that is applied to the lens so you can edge it in your lab and the chuck wont slip. We have to send the frame to an oustide lab that does the coating for us. Is this the norm or is the adhesive layer only applied to sv finished stock?

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    Quote Originally Posted by edKENdance
    I know the coating is slippery and I've been told that there is an adhesive(?) coating that is applied to the lens so you can edge it in your lab and the chuck wont slip. We have to send the frame to an oustide lab that does the coating for us. Is this the norm or is the adhesive layer only applied to sv finished stock?
    It is applied to all of their lenses. It is a blue coating (even on the green Alize, not only the D Alize) that is placed on the lens and gives a lot of refections. If you do not place it on the chuck will not even stick to the lens (we have tried it on warranty jobs). When it is done you can whip of the coating with a dry cloth. You will actually see it come off.

    Do you deal with Volker?

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    Independent Problem Optiholic edKENdance's Avatar
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    Volker, no. Canoptec, an Essilor lab in Canada. Is there a tech term for the coating?

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    RETIRED JRS's Avatar
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    The coating is called Azure (blue). And if for some reason... it is rubbed off - or you pull if off in the case of a need to re-block. Simple 'Breck' hairspray will work in a pinch. Just spray across the front surface, let it dry well, and block the puppy up again.
    J. R. Smith


  5. #5
    JRS,

    That is really a cool idea! Will Breck help hold lenses better in the edger, or help repel tiny scratches in the edger at all?

    Just curious about your Breck expirences...

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    Quote Originally Posted by JRS
    The coating is called Azure (blue). And if for some reason... it is rubbed off - or you pull if off in the case of a need to re-block. Simple 'Breck' hairspray will work in a pinch. Just spray across the front surface, let it dry well, and block the puppy up again.
    I just use a piece of good transparent tape. The only thing is you have to be careful.

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    RETIRED JRS's Avatar
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    MrBA -

    Back in the days before 'blue dots', fancy CNC finish blockers, and SRC coated (fronts) we used hairspray to protect the lenses from scratching. Blocked the lenses, then sprayed both sides before edging. Of course, part of the reasoning then (60's) was the fact that edgers were "shared" with glass. Glass being the predominant material at the time. Few of us could afford a plastic-only edger. And the volume then did not warrant a dedicated machine. To be quite honest, we had almost no dedicated plastic equipment. It made the early days of CR-39 quite a learning experience.
    Naturally, to remove the hairspray... we used mass amounts of Acetone. (It's one of the main reasons, although there are many others, I only have only one active brain cell left.)

    That said...
    The re-use of hairspray has started to appear in regards to the Azure coating I mentioned above. That is not to say that the process is invalid today, it just was not as nessessary with coated products and dedicated edgers, as it was then. The Azure coating works well. The hairspray is primarily for use in the event something happens to the Azure coating while still in an uncut state. I don't think it is nessessary to 'hairspray' all your work - nor the bad idea of using all that Acetone to clean it off, is needed. But for those special jobs where you want extra protection, it should work.
    J. R. Smith


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    Quote Originally Posted by JRS
    MrBA -

    Naturally, to remove the hairspray... we used mass amounts of Acetone. (It's one of the main reasons, although there are many others, I only have only one active brain cell left.)

    .
    No need to use acetone to remove hairspray. That's a bit overkill. Storebought SD alcohol works perfectly.

    Hairspray polymers are dissolved in alcohol in the bottle or canister. Alcohol is perfect to return the polymers to solution for easy removal. I've been using alcohol to remove hairspray (intentional and accidental) for nearly 20 years ever since I learned how harmful acetone is to the body, especially the vascopulmonary (sp?) and reproductive systems.

    I for one had too much exposure to acetone as a teen working in a photoprocessing lab and an optical lab at the same time. I'm lucky to have two healthy and wonderful children.

    I know I have lost quite a few neurons to both solvents. LOL
    Carl

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    Pomposity! Spexvet's Avatar
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    I've seen references to D Alize. What is that?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Spexvet
    I've seen references to D Alize. What is that?
    It is the Alize but with the blue tinge (like Zeiss) instead of the green. The Alize allows 99.2 percent light transmission where the D Alize allows 99.6 percent light transmission (and to my opinion is the only AR other than Crizal D to offer that
    amount). I know in some markets the D Alize is not available, because A lot of people are used to the green tinge and it is harder to introduce. For instance the blue coating took off big in Quebec, and we only use it here as it has been promoted more in Ontario (less reflections and looks cleaner, I have also had comments that it is clearer to look through). But in British Columbia it is not offered from my knowledge.

    You might question what 0.4 percent light transmission really means, but compare the Trio to the Crizal and that is only 0.4 percent and you can really tell the difference. Plus, the blue makes it really feel special since it is different from everything else.

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